For many, the idea of ethical fashion and sustainable clothing unfortunately still conjures up images of hemp and incense. However, over the past few years there has been a significant shift in the image of conscious fashion, with the birth of brands committed to producing clothing that is both ethically made and beautifully designed.
Slowly but surely, fashion brands are being held responsible for their impact on human life and the environment. This is thanks, in part, to international designers like committed vegan Stella McCartney – whose fabric innovation, sleek designs, and collaborations with brands like adidas have reinvented the concept of cruelty-free fashion – as well as the influence of the internet in spreading activism and raising awareness around our consumer habits faster than ever before.
While shopping ethically can be problematic (when prices are higher due to better production, and people morally judge you for shopping on the high street, it becomes a class issue), there’s a growing number of small, independent brands that stay true to creating clothes you’ll want to wear while implementing fairness every step of the way. And while fast fashion brands have a long, long way to go to overhaul the damaging and dangerous practices they currently employ, more are making positive changes.
So say goodbye to the idea that ethical equals beige calico maxi dresses, and hello to suede Chelsea boots, statement sleeves and box fresh trainers. From feminist and Photoshop-free platforms to brands working with global artisans to keep traditional craft alive, here’s our roundup of where to go to make your wardrobe more conscious.
Brother Vellies
Founded by Aurora James, Brother Vellies produces some of our favourite footwear. The name comes from the colloquial ‘vellies’, meaning ‘velskoen’ – the modern-day equivalent of a desert boot, which was the brand’s first design created by artisans in its South African workshop.
Spending her time travelling everywhere from Nigeria and Kenya to Morocco, James began the brand in order to share her favourite traditional African designs with people, and to create sustainable jobs within the region. Artisans are local, traditional craft is preserved, and the brand uses eco-friendly practices, such as vegetable rather than chemical dyeing, handmade production to reduce energy consumption, and large-batch shipping to lower its carbon footprint.
Brother Vellies Kaya Suede Boots, £440, available at Matches Fashion
Edun
If you can get past the fact that this brand was cofounded by Bono, you’ll see that Edun has successfully bridged the gap between artisan and high fashion. With cofounder Ali Hewson, the singer established Edun in 2005 to work with manufacturers across Africa to create clothing and accessories that reflect local craftsmanship. Part of the LVMH group, 95% of the brand’s production is carried out in sub-Saharan Africa, and in 2013 it presented a collection made solely with cotton produced by its Conservation Cotton Initiative Uganda.
Founded in 2009, the CCIU supports over 8,500 farmers displaced by Ugandan civil war, offering funding and commercial and technical advice on sustainable methods of cotton production. While some sustainable or ethical labels have struggled to shake the hippyish connotations, Edun has kept its aesthetic vision sharp.
Edun Canvas Midi Skirt, £428, available at Edun
Maiyet
Partnering with organisations like Nest and Positive Luxury, Maiyet don’t mess around when it comes to ethical production. In fact, the sleek clothing and accessories brand are innovators, too, collaborating with nomad goat herders in Outer Mongolia to create the world’s first ethically sourced and environmentally sustainable cashmere yarn.
Boasting relationships with some of the rarest-skilled artisans around, you’ll spot appliqué from Kolkata, leather from Florence, block printing from Jaipur, fil coupé needlework from Varanasi, and weaving from La Paz in the beautiful clothes they sell. Maiyet breathes new life into ancient and traditional crafts to deliver luxury fashion with a heart.
Maiyet Arc Hammered Silk-Satin Dress, £515, available at Net-A-Porter
Veja
Veja is living proof that you don’t need over-hyped influencers or in-your-face branding to achieve success in the ever-evolving world of trainers. Veja – meaning ‘look’ in Brazilian Portuguese – urges you to ‘look beyond the sneakers, look how they are made’, and its founders, school friends Sébastien Kopp and François Morillon, are serious about ethical practices and social responsibility every step of the way.
They work with Ateliers Sans Frontières, an initiative that rehabilitates ex-offenders and drug users, in their warehouse and logistics teams; use wild rubber latex (tapped by 60 families of rubber tappers in the Amazon rainforest) for the soles of their shoes; use a green electricity company, as opposed to the French standard EDF; and the pesticide-, GMO-, and fertiliser-free cotton is bought from cotton growers in Brazil for a fair price. Producing slick, contemporary shapes and much sought-after styles, Veja shows other brands just how it’s done.
Veja Holiday Silk Gold Sable Trainers, £130, available at Trouva
Rêve En Vert
Rêve En Vert operate under four main pillars: sustainable style, quality, respect, and longevity. Founded in 2013 by Cora Hilts and Natasha Tucker as a move against fast fashion and overconsumption, the platform’s focus is on curation and timeless style, with a firm eye on social and environmental wellbeing.
Exclusively selling designers who employ responsibility and operate with respect for people and the planet, items on the site are organic, remade, local and fair, and have quality style that comes from a place of consciousness. From Filippa K and By Signe to Mara Hoffman, Rêve En Vert has positioned itself as the go-to destination for luxury fashion with a conscience.
Fonnesbech Adwoa Jacket, £320, available at Rêve En Vert
lemlem
lemlem (which means 'to flourish and bloom' in Amharic) was launched by supermodel Liya Kebede after a visit to her native Ethiopia. Speaking with traditional weavers whose craft the global market had left behind, Kebede was inspired to set up the platform as a way to create jobs for talented makers across Africa and bring their creations to the rest of the world. Working with yarn spinners in Ethiopia, crocheters in Kenya, embroiderers in Rwanda, and knitters in Madagascar, the brand produces womenswear and homeware pieces.
lemlem doesn’t just provide economic opportunities and safe spaces to work. The brand also tackles the high number of deaths during pregnancy and childbirth in Africa each year. Working with the continent’s largest health charity, Amref Health Africa, to train midwives, host maternal health education programmes, and upgrade maternity clinics, lemlem places women’s rights and safety at the centre of its mission.
lemlem Edna Maxi Sun Dress, £300, available at Net-A-Porter
Mango Committed
Fast fashion brands are increasingly aware of the need and demand for principled and conscious production. This year, Mango launched Committed, a 45-piece sustainable unisex collection, in a bid to increase its ethical and eco responsibility. Partnering with manufacturers in Morocco, Portugal and Turkey, the collection is made up of repurposed and organic materials, such as cotton, recycled polyester and Tencel.
Made up of dreamy shirts and boilersuits fit for your workwear or holiday wardrobes, the capsule collection is part of the Take Action project, which will see the brand measure and reduce its water footprint, and put into place a business model based on environmentally friendly processes. There's certainly headway to be made by high street retailers, but this is a big move in the right direction.
Mango Committed Interwoven Cord Skirt, £39.99, available at Mango
Birdsong
Birdsong began in 2014 when founders Sarah and Sophie met and sold products made by women at the charities they worked for. Using friends and activists as models, they have a strictly no-Photoshop, no-sweatshop policy. Fast-forward to grants, BBC coverage and a wildly successful crowdfunder, and Birdsong now sells in 18 countries.
Working with Knit & Natter groups in Enfield, low-income migrant mothers in Tower Hamlets, and Brick Lane seamstresses, the brand is dedicated to working with women's groups to put amazing skills to good use for fair pay, while bringing gorgeous handmade clothing and jewellery to their audience.
Birdsong Organic Cotton Twill Hardwick Trousers, £85, available at Birdsong
Proud Mary
Founded by Harper Poe in 2008 after spending time in South America, Proud Mary produces global textiles through exploring age-old traditional craft methods. Having worked with 30 different artisanal groups over nine years, the brand has also partnered with global organisations like the World Bank, USAID, and Urban Outfitters.
From Mexico and Mali to Peru and the Dominican Republic, Proud Mary ensures a sustainable income for its artisans via consistent orders and workshop expansion. In the face of 11 million displaced Syrians over the last five years, the design and craftsmanship at the heart of the country has been threatened; Proud Mary is now working with a Damascus-based organisation which provides skills training for women there. You’ll find everything from brightly coloured bags to rich cotton cushion covers on site.
Proud Mary Boca Chica Clutch, £89, available at Proud Mary
AURIA
AURIA was founded by Central Saint Martins graduate Diana Auria back in 2013. A proud and vocal advocate of responsible fashion, the designer has given talks on the subject at The Royal Society of Arts, and created sustainable projects with Selfridges and Sony. Creating the kind of swimwear you'd book a holiday to wear, she's collaborated with fellow designers Ashley Williams and Marta Jakubowski.
"In today's world we have many choices. As a designer, from sourcing materials to paying close attention to every step of your supply chain. As a consumer, what you buy and knowing where it came from," says the brand's website. Made in England and with recycled fabrics that utilise discarded fishing nets and other waste, AURIA stays true to its values without compromising on contemporary and fresh design.
Ashley Williams x AURIA Swimsuit, £68, available at AURIA
ASOS Made in Kenya
While the fast fashion giant has a long way to go when it comes to sustainable and ethical production, one initiative creating a positive impact is its Made in Kenya range. An ongoing collaboration with SOKO, a manufacturer based in Kenya's Rukinga Wildlife Sanctuary, its SS17 offering includes sketches by children at a local primary school printed on kimonos and T-shirts, alongside denim made under fair trade standards.
Established in 2009 by Joanna Maiden, SOKO is located in an area of Kenya that has the highest unemployment rate in the country, as well as large numbers of HIV/AIDS, sex work and wildlife poaching. Offering an alternative means to live – through training, free medical care and a pre-school for employees' children – the organisation enables women to earn a wage safely. To top it all off, in 2012 SOKO relocated to a purpose-built eco-factory, which minimised its environmental impact significantly, thanks to a roof that reuses rainwater and ventilation gaps that reduce the demand for electricity.
ASOS Made in Kenya Cold Shoulder Maxi Dress in Ditsy Floral, £68, available at ASOS
Lowie
Lowie was founded by Bronwyn Lowenthal 15 years ago. 'In an industry that often profits from exploitation, Lowie aims to be different'. From recycled cotton to ethically sourced wool, chemical-free leather to family-run crochet workshops in Eastern China, all of the materials used for Lowie's pieces are sustainable and ethical.
Selling cute prints and stylist sportswear, there's a range of pieces available in their online shop as well as at their flagship in London's Herne Hill.
Lowie Under The Same Sun Palm Print Crop Top, £69, available at Lowie.
Gather&See
Gather&See offer a plethora of brands that operate their businesses in a responsible way. Alicia Taylor and Stephanie Hogg established the platform out of frustration at the lack of availability of ethical clothing. All the brands you can shop on their site match up with its five main pillars: Fair Trade, Organic, Eco-Friendly, Small Scale Production, and Heritage.
Currently stocking 43 brands that work with artisans across the globe, Gather&See don't compromise on style: we love this navy geometric dress from Riyka.
Riyka Roxy Jo Dress, £145, available at Gather&See.
Pink City Prints
Molly Russell stumbled across a fabric market in Jaipur – India’s Pink City - and was so inspired by the ancient crafts and techniques that she founded Pink City Prints in 2016. After studying at Glasgow School of Art, Russell now spends half her time in India working alongside a group of artisans who help to bring her ideas to life.
All the fabric used in Pink City Prints is locally sourced cotton or silk, and the brand uses traditional Indian methods such as block-printing, Indigo, and hand embroidery to create fresh, modern prints and textures. The collection includes everything from clothing and lifestyle accessories.
Pink City Prints Rah-Rah Dress, £99, available at Pink City Prints.
Matt & Nat
Canadian brand Matt & Nat is inspired by material and nature, and are your go-to label for cruelty free sleek accessories. "From the start, being committed to not using leather or any other animal-based materials in our designs felt natural to us". Offered in boutiques across Canada, the USA, UK, Japan, Germany and Australia, they produce everything from minimalist satchels to everyday clutches.
"Each season, we continue to explore new innovative ways to remain sustainable and eco-friendly. Over the years, we've been experimenting with different recycled materials such as recycled nylons, cardboard, rubber and cork." For 10 years, they've been committed to making their bag linings from 100% recycled plastic bottles, too.
Matt & Nat Obe Bag, £88, available at Matt & Nat.
Lindex
Lindex operate an ongoing sustainable denim initiative, using just 2 litres of water in the washing process of their denim, as opposed to the 50-70 litres used across the industry. Developed in collaboration with Spanish denim consultants Jeanologia, the 63-year old Scandi brand combines the use of recycled cotton and polyester with innovative air and laser technology in their Even Better Denim range, pledging to make 80% of their clothes through sustainable processes by 2020.
Whilst the Even Better Denim collection may have launched in 2016, Lindex have been working with their suppliers since 2014, screening their denim production to grade the environmental impact and managing to reduce their denim water consumption by 45%.
Lindex Straight High Jeans With Pearls, £39.99, available at Lindex
Kings of Indigo
Since 2012, Kings of Indigo have been producing denim with a conscience. Ranked the #1 most sustainable denim brand in Europe, 90% of its materials are sustainable and made from recycled cotton and reworked denim. It uses 50% less water than most denim brands, and 40% of the energy used at their head quarters is solar powered.
The brand doesn't cut down on style, though. From patchwork to flares and frayed hems, their womenswear jeans offering is cutting edge. They also create shell tops, dresses and duster jackets, placing them as your ultimate destination for guilt-free denim.
Kings of Indigo Regan Patchwork Bell Bottom Jeans, £254, available at Kings of Indigo.
Filippa K
Combining sleek tailoring with contemporary sportswear, Filippa K produces everything from boxy denim jackets to minimalist midi dresses. Founded way back in 1993, the brand has made its name as a leader in Scandi design, bringing out four collections each year: womenswear, menswear and Soft Sport, a line of chic workout gear.
Filippa K works on its Front Runners - garments that are given thorough life-cycle assessments, testing each phase of the piece's construction against sustainability standards. From the raw material to how the brand's customers recycle their clothing, the brand takes a different material to focus on each time - wool being its latest venture - with the aim of making its whole collection sustainable by 2030.
Filippa K Oversized Denim Jacket, £205, available at Filippa K.
¢HNGE
A pioneer for conscious streetwear, ¢hnge is a clever consumer revolution. The ethos goes, what is left over and reused can transform our society and environment. The brand aims to create a new economy that operates on sustainable, transparent production.
All clothing is made from 100% organic cotton, uses recycled packaging and leaves no carbon footprint. ¢hnge is committed to donating half of all profits to individuals and charities that advocate for positive social and environmental progress, including The Malala Fund, Pencils for Promise, Charity Water and Acumen.
Two
Founded in 2010 by designer Monica Patel-Cohn, Two is a collection of ready to wear summer pieces made from Indian sarees and textiles. The brand is built on high quality hand-woven fabrics made by artisans in a small production. Two's one of a kind approach to production saves 1 ton of CO2 emissions per year. Every purchase directly supports local weavers, artisans and designers in India.
Two Handwoven Gorgeous Dhaka Caftan, £348.20, available at Two New York.
Soraya Hennessy
Soraya Hennessy's eponymous accessories collection offers unique, entirely handmade mochilas, messenger bags and beach totes. The Venezuelan based brand produces bold, colourful designs crafted from hand weaving techniques that are native to Hennessy's family heritage. Small scale production and a focus on tradition helps to reduce the carbon footprint.
Soraya Hennessy Fringe Boho Bag, £106.61, available at Soraya Hennessy.
More from Refinery29's Fashion Conscience Week:
The Founder Of Nest On Making Fashion Production Fair
How Can You Actually Make The Fashion Industry More Responsible?
From Field & Factory To Shop Floor: The Journey Of Your Clothes
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