Aside from bananas, Crystal Moselle's skateboarding bildungsroman Skate Kitchen has a theme, and that theme is wild youth. The movie, which features a real life New York City skate crew, follows Camille (Rachelle Vinberg, who was recently profiled for The Cut) as she befriends a close-knit gang of girl skaters. In the clip below, the girls question Camille's "type" — in other words, her sexual preference.
"What's your type?" Janay (Dede Lovelace) asks Camille.
The conversation devolves into: what's your sexual preference. In the words of Kurt (Nina Moran): They're talking about "sexual" cuisine. These are the conversations that make up Moselle's loose, infectious film.
Moselle, the director of the 2015 Sundance hit The Wolfpack, made the movie after she encountered Vinberg and Moran on the G train in Brooklyn. At the time, Vindberg was the sole owner of the "skate kitchen" title, a joke on the idea that a woman belongs in the kitchen. Moselle initially featured the girl crew in a short film for Miu Miu entitled That One Day, a part of the brand's Women's Tales series. Shortly after, she began filming a scripted movie based on the lives of these skateboarders. Jaden Smith — yes, the same Jaden Smith you're thinking of — joined the film after reading the script.
Watch the full exclusive clip, below.
Skate Kitchen clip
Skate Kitchen is in UK cinemas from 28th September 2018
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Steve Bannon, former advisor to Donald Trump, may have left the White House back in August but he's trying hard to win back favour with the US president and he's making pals with UK politicians too. Once Trump's right-hand man, Bannon was a powerful force behind his election campaign. Now Bannon is using his considerable influence to push his 'Movement' and unite the parties of the far right in Europe in order to influence the next UK election. Bannon is the type of man who wants rallying fascists to wear the labels 'racist' and 'xenophobe' as a badge of honour. But what has this got to do with Boris Johnson's recent insults to Muslim women? Well, everything actually.
In July, Boris resigned as foreign secretary over Theresa May’s plans to extract the UK from the European Union. Once a liberal conservative, he was respected in his diplomatic role, hosting world leaders and going on state visits to represent us abroad. He’s now making a bid for the xenophobic vote, and believe me, because of his words, minorities will suffer.
News broke last week that Boris, together with like-minded Conservatives Michael Gove and Jacob Rees-Mogg, met up with Bannon to discuss, well we can't know for sure. After the meeting, Boris exhibited what he learned from his pals, by insulting and demeaning Muslim women who choose to wear the niqab.
The controversy began when Boris wrote a piece for The Daily Telegraph, published online on 5th August, in which he argued against following Denmark’s lead by banning the burqa, but went on to compare Muslim women who wear the head covering to "letter boxes" and "bank robbers". He also revealed he would "feel entitled" to ask a Muslim woman wearing a niqab to remove it if she came to his constituency office. He concluded by saying: "In Britain today, there is only a tiny tiny minority of women who wear these odd bits of headgear. One day, I am sure, they will go."
Boris Johnson loves a bit of discrimination, especially when it’s at the expense of women and minorities. He is a public figure with 446,000 Twitter followers; he knew exactly what he was writing when he chose to use this specific language. He knew the impact and the effect it would have. It's another example of post-Brexit Conservatives thinking and speaking like UKIP.
Photo: selimaksan/Getty Images
Prime Minister Theresa May said the remarks "clearly caused offence" and ordered him to say sorry but I think this needs more than an apology. What about a resignation instead? #BorisMustGo is already trending on Twitter.
Boris is clearly waiting to make a leadership bid and it looks like he will say and do whatever he must to get there. Many Muslims out there, myself included, sincerely hope he doesn’t continue to use us as a tool to garner attention and votes.
Don’t get me wrong, I believe he should have the freedom to speak about his concerns but when it’s blatantly a ploy to offend large groups of people in Britain, he needs to be more sensitive and the media should filter their writers and promote positive news rather than print throwaway comments like this, which sadly have become commonplace. Because let's be clear: this is Islamophobia and Boris knows it.
Just to repeat, to wear the burqa, the niqab or the hijab is a choice.
Far from making him look strong, Boris has proved how weak and desperate for publicity he is, and that, worryingly, he is taking cues from the Trump playbook. Let's show him that's not the way we want our politicians to act.
The Oscars just made a big change. Today the Academy announced that it's adding a new category to the award show that will recognise outstanding achievement in popular film, meaning things just got a lot more exciting for movies like Black Panther.
Typically, blockbusters like Black Panther, Avengers: Infinity War, and Incredibles 2 would rake in the cash at the cinema but not receive as much critical praise. The coveted Best Picture slot tends to go to less splashy, more critically acclaimed films, but this new category allows the public fervour around films to be recognised on stage. Now, Black Panther could scoop best popular movie, best director, best sound editing, best editing, best costumes, and best makeup.
The Oscars also announced that they are shortening the broadcast to three hours by airing some categories live and other categories during commercial breaks (to be edited and aired later), as well as an earlier date for the 2020 Oscars, moving the show from February 23 to February 9. However, it's the new category that has people talking. In fact, Twitter is kind of angry, arguing that the popularity of the a film (and the £££ that comes with that) is its own reward.
There is already an award for popular films. It's called "money." I have no particular problem with the other new Oscar moves--to insist on a three-hour show (whatever) and to move it a couple of weeks earlier (won't help a thing but won't hurt anything). >
Others are pointing out that this just seems like a convenient way to give Black Panther an award without giving it a seat at the table with more traditional Best Picture nominees. Who's to say what's "best" can't also be what's popular?
Popular film should... be nominated in general? What’s been defined as Oscar worthy or Oscar bait has been defined by the pretensions of white people.
As for a "popular film" award, it is a ghetto and will be perceived that way. Imagine if they instituted it this year: "Oh, It's lovely that the rabble went to Black Panther--here's a special fake Oscar it can win!" This is just a head-slapper on all counts.
Plus, there's the fact that adding this award feels like salt in the wounds of behind-the-scenes positions that still don't have categories, like stunt performers.
still no oscar for stunt performances/choreography or voice acting but cool, why not add an award for most popular movie, to the popular movie awards
Last night, the Board of Governors met to elect new board officers, and discuss and approve significant changes to the Oscars telecast.
The Board of Governors, staff, Academy members, and various working groups spent the last several months discussing improvements to the show.
Tonight, the Board approved three key changes:
1. A three-hour Oscars telecast
We are committed to producing an entertaining show in three hours, delivering a more accessible Oscars for our viewers worldwide.
To honor all 24 award categories, we will present select categories live, in the Dolby Theatre, during commercial breaks (categories to be determined). The winning moments will then be edited and aired later in the broadcast.
2. New award category
We will create a new category for outstanding achievement in popular film. Eligibility requirements and other key details will be forthcoming.
3. Earlier airdate for 92nd Oscars
The date of the 92nd Oscars telecast will move to Sunday, February 9, 2020, from the previously announced February 23. The date change will not affect awards eligibility dates or the voting process.
The 91st Oscars telecast remains as announced on Sunday, February 24, 2019.
We have heard from many of you about improvements needed to keep the Oscars and our Academy relevant in a changing world. The Board of Governors took this charge seriously.
We are excited about these steps, and look forward to sharing more details with you.
John Bailey and Dawn Hudson
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Brian Woo, better known asDr. Woo, is the go-to tattoo artist for celebrities like Drake, Miley Cyrus, and Zoë Kravitz. To celebrate his TV debut tonight on Viceland's Tattoo Age,he opened up to R29 about his relationships with his famous clients, the odd story behind his moniker, and why he doesn't believe his own hype. The following interview was told to Lexy Lebsack and edited for length and clarity.
An Offer He Couldn’t Refuse "I grew up in L.A. and got my first tattoo when I was 14; it was a little dragon on my ankle, which is now on the side of my calf because I had a growth spurt. I got my start when I was offered an apprenticeship with Mark Mahoney, who had been tattooing me for eight years. I was a fan of getting tattoos, but I didn't think I could ever be a tattoo artist. I compare it to getting a scholarship to a great medical school — even if you weren't sure about being a doctor, you'd probably take it.
“Getting my start at [Shamrock Social Club] on the Sunset Strip, I've seen some crazy things — from huge fights breaking out in the middle of the street to celebrities coming in and out. One time, a girl passed out in the bathroom before her appointment; she must have taken something to calm her nerves, and I had to literally break down the door like a movie when you throw your shoulder into it.”
Dr. Woo is famous for his delicate line work.Photo: Courtesy of Viceland.
It's All In The Details “ There's the old, traditional style of tattoos, which is bold and can be done in colour, but fine line started in the ‘50s in the Los Angeles prison system. They're thinner gauge needles and create a finer tattoo with more details. My style was influenced by L.A. and by Mark, who is one of the founders of the single needle tattoo style. I would describe my style as super delicate with a lot of small details in a smaller space. It's not too bold or invasive and it gives an option to people who don't want to be totally covered in tattoos; it's more of an accessory.
On Becoming The "Doctor" “At Shamrock Social Club, it's kind of a rite of passage: Once you go from apprentice to tattoo artist, you have to get a nickname. Mine started when one guy said there was an old movie that had this evil villain called Dr. Woo, but the character ended up not even being named Woo!
“As a first generation American, my parents immigrated here [from Taiwan] so their kids could be lawyers or doctors, so that was also a running joke — finally my parents have a doctor in the family! When I first started, my parents weren't psyched about my career path, but now they're super proud, which is kind of cool.”
Dr. Woo giving a client a calf tattoo on tonight's episode of Tattoo Age.Photo: Courtesy of Viceland.
Draw The Line “Celebrities go through life being hounded constantly, so I just treat them the same as everyone else. Being tattooed is such a personal thing between the artist and the client, and I take it very seriously and I’m very protective of all my clients. I don’t talk about the tattoos I do on celebrities, but if someone asked me about a random client’s tattoos, I wouldn't tell them about that either.
“A lot of other tattoo artists like to use the hype of the celebrity to promote themselves, but I just like to be about my work. I want people to look at a Dr. Woo tattoo and be like, ‘That's dope!’ I want them to like my work, not the fact that I gave a celebrity a small cross tattoo on their ankle. That doesn't really define me as an artist — if I tattooed a celebrity and they got a dot or some shit, ya know? That's just hype, and hype doesn't last forever."
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As romantic teenagers, my friends and I used to lie in our beds at boarding school – very Malory Towers – talking solemnly about what life would look like by the time we were 30. We’d be married, we decided, with one to three children and a dog, living in a nice house. The fact that none of us had gone much further than snogging a boy, maybe the odd bit of fingering on a beach in Cornwall, didn’t dissuade us from this fantasy. That was the pattern of life. We knew it would happen.
I’m now 33 and not married. Fourteen-year-old me is horrified. I eat toast for dinner, I leave teabags in the sink, I never seem to have enough clean knickers (where do all the clean knickers go? Is it the same place as hair ties?). But my general slovenliness has nothing to do with it. I’m just not sure marriage is for me.
It was a topic that came up early in my relationship with my boyfriend. "I’m never getting married," he announced airily on date five or six. Men often do that towards the start of a relationship, I’ve noticed. It’s a little test – are you Glenn Close from Fatal Attraction or Julia Roberts from Runaway Bride?
"Me neither," I shot back.
He looked slightly surprised. "How come?"
"Everyone in my family’s divorced," I said, shrugging. "So I don’t want to do it."
My siblings and I have often debated whether having divorced parents makes you more or less likely to make a marriage succeed. On the one hand, you’ve felt divorce up close and may be doubly keen to avoid it. On the other, you realise that divorce isn’t necessarily the end of the world. Hideous, sure, but life goes on.
It has made me a cynic, though, and installed a fear of the impermanence of relationships. Falling in love and being in love is a wonderful, extraordinary, magical thing. But making it last? Hmmm. Trickier. And yet in our 20s this strange phenomenon starts happening – friends begin to rush up the aisle as if it’s Black Friday at Asda. They choose to commit to someone forever, which is incredibly optimistic given that many of us struggle to commit to a date for dinner in a few weeks’ time with our closest mates. Statistically, we know that around 40% of these marriages will end in divorce and yet there we stand, celebrating, dutifully clapping after the vows, dribbling espresso martinis over ourselves at the reception.
So, yeah, a cynic. Or maybe just a wimp? I’m in awe of my pals who choose to do it, but sitting in church as the organist ploughs through Pachelbel, there’s often a little voice in my head thinking 'Really? You guys sure? Are you definitely not just doing this because everyone else is?' The ultimate life goal for a huge number of people these days, considering it’s 2018 and we’re supposedly all so much more emotionally aware than previous generations, still seems to be getting engaged so you can Instagram a picture of your hand. And then throw a hen or stag party with its own hashtag so you get loads of likes. And then the wedding itself – even more likes! Brilliant!
Eeeeeech. It sounds bitter and churlish. It’s not meant to. It’s more that this assumption about marriage, this persistent obsession that marriage is the answer and you 'should have' done it by a certain age, feels ever so slightly unthinking. I love my boyfriend enormously and I can't imagine my life without him, but promise to stick together forever? I’d rather we take each day, each month, each year as it comes without that pressure.
Baroness Fiona Shackleton, top divorce lawyer, made headlines recently when she declared that marriage lessons should be taught in schools. They teach children about alcohol and drug abuse, sex and "goodness knows what else", Shackleton told Radio 4, but failed to talk about "the most important decision they make – which is, basically, who they breed with".
Well, it’s a fairly unromantic way to put it, Baroness, but I’m with you. Sort of. When I think back to the classroom, I remember teachers wanging on about photosynthesis and oxbow lakes but I don’t remember many truths about marriage. I’ve admired the lawyer ever since she appeared from court all those years ago with wet hair, slicked back like a Bond girl coming out of the sea. She was representing Paul McCartney in his divorce from Heather Mills and supposedly things had become so heated that Heather lobbed a jug of water over the Baroness in fury. Still, Shackleton stepped from the court beaming, which seemed a sensible way to carry on if you’ve just been assaulted with a surprise shower. And her suggestions about marriage lessons seem a sensible step in the right direction too, but can I make a suggestion? Could one of the lessons cover options for those who aren’t sure about marriage at all? For those who want to be single, or just cohabit with someone, or live in a commune with 47 other people having orgies every night, frankly. In pluralist times where difference is championed, why should marriage still be the prescription for so many?
The Plus One by Sophia Money-Coutts is published on 9th August (HQ, £12.99)
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If you're anything like us, the image of Jeff Goldblum as a sweaty, shirtless Dr Ian Malcom in 1993's Jurassic Park will be etched on your subconscious, a sexy relic of the '90s, which has been doing the rounds this year, thanks to the film's 25th anniversary.
We didn't think Goldblum could get any better but time has been oh so kind to the actor and musician, who has aged like an extremely fine wine. Now a silver fox – and a bonafide thirst trap – lately we've been blessed with his presence once again as he promotes his burgeoning music career (suddenly we love jazz piano?) and before that, Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom.
Photo by Randy Holmes/ABC via Getty Images
Among the viral videos of Goldblum reading out tweets from stans, and photos of him tinkling the ivories, the highlight so far has been a recent TV appearance for which he donned Prada's contrast print shirt with his signature eccentricity and nonchalance. The piece, featuring multicoloured stripes, a graphic '90s print and flames, has garnered street style kudos from the likes of Pusha T and is the perfect amalgamation of our dads' holiday shirts and those our brothers wore to school discos. In theory, it's so, so wrong. On Jeff Goldblum? It's so damn right.
Richard Jones, menswear buying manager at Selfridges, explains why the piece has become so popular this summer. "The relaxed aesthetic makes it an easy piece to wear with sneakers, and is a great option for the heatwave. With a boxy silhouette, it’s universally flattering and works as a statement piece that you can have fun with." Richard's go-to brands include Gucci, Burberry and Prada, which all offer "Hawaiian, camp-collar and bowling-style" shirts. "They're bold in nature without being difficult to style – they effortlessly pair with a white tee – making it a summer staple."
The high street has plenty to choose from this summer, too, with Mango's offering particularly high on our wish list. We're layering this electric blue shirt over slinky silk dresses, and wearing this pastel flamingo one with washed denim and cowboy boots.
For styling tricks, we're turning to Pernille Teisbaek, who paired her printed Prada shirt with track shorts at Paris Couture in July. To counterbalance the oversized fit of her get-up, she piled on delicate gold jewellery, carried a miniature Hermès box bag, and wore cat-eye sunnies and barely-there heels by Céline. Editor of Elle Men China, Yoyo Lu, also wore the brand's boxy printed shirt at Men's Fashion Week in Milan in June. Complementing the femininity of the tropical florals with a pink lace midi skirt, she carried a clutch and topped off the mix-n-match look with fresh trainers.
Photo by Melodie Jeng/Getty ImagesPhoto by Christian Vierig/Getty Images
Whether you're wearing it over a classic white T-shirt with track pants and slides at the weekend, or over a simple midi dress with Birkenstocks on holiday, an outrageous printed shirt should be your go-to this summer – the bolder, the better.
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According to Mintel, as many as 83% of women in the UK wear makeup. Sixty-four percent of those who do say it makes them feel confident, 43% say it makes them feel attractive, 16% feel more professional and 15% feel empowered. It's no wonder, then, that for some women, leaving the house without makeup can be a daunting experience.
On the other hand, the 'no-makeup makeup' look has evolved and women all over the globe, including influencers and celebrities, are ditching the tens of products needed to create it for, well, nothing at all. A quick whip round the R29 office cites a lack of time, a desire to embrace natural freckles and a fear of clogged pores (note – pick non-comedogenic makeup and this is much less likely to happen) as reasons for deciding not to wear makeup.
Of course, in 2018, wearing or not wearing makeup should be a woman's prerogative, whether you strobe, contour and bake every morning or opt for a little SPF moisturiser and nothing else. But in the name of beauty, we decided to conduct a little experiment...
Here's what happened when R29's makeup-dependent beauty editor, Jacqueline, swapped looks with R29's PR director (and total makeup phobe), Nina, for four days straight.
Nina Joyce, PR Director Europe
I can’t exactly pinpoint the moment I stopped wearing makeup, but slowly my morning routine has dwindled to moisturiser, SPF, a smidge of concealer under the eyes and some lip balm. If that sounds smugly minimal and Goop-y, it’s really not in practice. I know I objectively look better with makeup. C’mon, I have eyes. Sometimes I look needlessly a bit rough and 10 minutes in front of the mirror could take me from looking like Garth from Wayne’s World on a hangover to...well...a prettier version of Garth from Wayne’s World. We all have our crosses to bear.
But when this challenge arose, I bashed everyone else out of the way with a mermaid tail highlighter brush to do the swap. You know why? Because it is my dream to have my own lucrative beauty career where I live off the sales of merchandise featuring my face on Wayne’s World makeup. Joking! I am a curious and vain human who wants to see if the alternative universe where I am better looking is worth dipping a toe into more often. Effectively I imagine it’ll be like having an Instagram filter on my face all day and oh boy, does that sound good.
Day One
I wake up bright and early on the first day of this challenge, bringing the same positive mental attitude that a labradoodle might on the first day of puppy school or wherever it is they get their qualifications from. Obviously I immediately fuck up putting concealer on my face, drying out my spots to such a degree that it looks like someone has sprinkled fish flakes all over me. Oh did I not mention I have adult acne? Cool, right? After slathering moisturiser all over and starting again, I finally get it right. Sort of. The problem is that I’m unsure when to stop applying foundation (I'm using Huda Beauty's Faux Filter, which is really full coverage) and as a rather pale woman, I’m beginning to look ever so slightly...Elizabethan. Which is great and fun if lead poisoning and executing cousins is your bag, but I have a working day ahead of me which doesn’t involve ruling a Tudor court.
After 50 minutes (YES, 50, YOU READ THAT RIGHT. AS IN ALMOST ONE HOUR OF MY TIME), I am done. I feel...not great. I don’t recognise the person looking back at me. I’m scared to touch my face. I’m pretty sure people are staring at me on the Tube. My colleagues are very supportive and tell me how lovely I look, but I suspect they’re fantastic liars. By the end of the day I’m itching to take it all off and I collapse into bed worrying about having to spend the coming days explaining what the hell I have done to myself. Bleurgh, I thought makeup was fun?
Day Two
I wake up with a sense of dread at putting all that on again. The previously bouncy puppy is no longer loving pup school. It’s now upset and embarrassed, like it’s been caught pissing in its owner’s hydrangeas while wearing 14 metric tonnes of foundation. I’ve also realised that all my knowledge of makeup in recent years derives almost exclusively from Drag Race and avant-garde YouTubers, so I decide I need to concentrate less on baking my face and more on making it look normal. I carefully dab at myself with a Beauty Blender (shoutout Jacqueline telling me this should be damp first, it was a game-changer) until I’m satisfied with the results.
I cast my mind back to GCSE art and add some depth and shading to my eyelids. To my surprise, when I’m taking the pictures to document this, I notice that quite frankly, I am deeply feeling myself. Done properly, this makeup has turned me into a master poser, giver of pout and provider of as much sauce as a white middle-class woman in Birkenstocks can expect to achieve without making everyone’s skin fall off in embarrassment, i.e. less than a thimbleful. But that’s enough for me! I’m still sort of dying when I have to look people in the eye, but this is progress.
Day Three
By this point I have refined my routine to a slick 30 mins of concealer, foundation, Benefit eyebrow pencil, three Urban Decay eyeshadows, liquid eyeliner, mascara, contour bronzer, blusher, highlighter and my old faithful lip balm. I abandoned lipstick after day one because my mouth kept getting crusty. I have endless respect for people who have the tenacity to reapply lipstick through the day. You are heroes and the responsibility to solve global warming is, I’m afraid, falling to you as the most reliable.
So far, feedback from friends has been split entirely by sex: women tell me I look amazing and want a makeover, while men stifle a laugh. Unless you’ve got a lifetime to spare, I won’t get into the social and cultural reasons why there might be this kind of gender disparity, but the general takeaway is the ever reliable adage "Screw Anyone Who Doesn’t Have Nice Stuff To Say".
By the end of the day, I begin to forget I’m even wearing the makeup, despite the #BritishHeatwave presenting the very real prospect of it all sliding down my face like expensive custard. I’ve realised that some of the reasons I’ve stopped wearing foundation ("It’ll look too obvious...my skin will get much worse...it’s too much hassle") are all a slightly strange self-flagellation because there’s a world of non-comedogenic products out there that work wonders when applied properly. Yes, I have learned what non-comedogenic means. Hear me roar.
Day Four
Saturdays would normally be a totally makeup-free day for me, but rules state I must test out my full face at the brunch place near my house I go to every week. And yes, weekly brunch, I know, I am a gross avocado-gurgling millennial who will never own property, let me live. I wonder if they’ll notice the change in my appearance? Wearing the entire arsenal of products, I step over the threshold, expecting confusion – maybe even judgement? But of course they could not literally give two shits what I look like as long as I keep giving them that sweet £7 for scrambled tofu (I. SAID. LET. ME. LIVE). I realise for the 148th time this week that my self-consciousness is wholly and squarely down to me and I need to quite frankly get over myself.
As a swansong to my week of makeup, my Love Island WhatsApp group (don’t pretend you don’t have one) decide we’ll get together and employ what I have learned before a night on the tiles. I do everyone’s makeup; I’m like the Bill Gates of cosmetics, I’m giving so much back to the community, although it’s concealer not condoms I deal in. A few days ago I might’ve dismissed this as a waste of time, but I have a new appreciation for the transformative power of makeup on a micro, personal level.
Sure, we might all look like Full On Monets but we’re having so much fun doing it, what’s the harm?
Jacqueline Kilikita, Beauty Editor
I was 11 when I had my first acne breakout, so taking pity on me, my mum gave me permission to raid her makeup bag for concealer. Her collection boasted all the high street icons – Maybelline's Great Lash mascara, Rimmel foundation, kohl eyeliner, Bourjois blush. Every day I'd raid her stash and apply one extra product until rocking a full face became the norm.
Today, my obsession with makeup knows no bounds. My acne has eased off a little, but I wake up at 6am every morning to make sure I have an hour and a half to fashion a cat eye sharp enough to cut my enemies and to sculpt my cheekbones better than all of Kim Kardashian-West's makeup artists combined. Foundation, bronzer, blusher, lashes: the lot. I virtually transform into a different person, looks and personality-wise.
Confession: If I ever stay round a guy's house, I'll reapply my makeup before bed and make sure I wake up before he does to reapply in the morning. And not long ago, I went to a masterclass with a celebrity makeup artist who made me remove every single stitch of what I'd painstakingly applied that day so she could show off her new products in front of around 30 beauty editors and influencers. Long story short, I had to stop myself from bursting into tears. Makeup is my comfort blanket, so the thought of going without for four days straight? In public? At work, on the Tube, on dates? Mission impossible. But in the name of this piece, I agreed.
Disclaimer: I had a lash lift a month ago, so my lashes look a little more curved than usual. I also have really dark, thick and just overall strong brows and give them a brush every morning – there's zero product in them, promise!
Day One
God I look like my brother. It feels so good not to set my alarm for stupid o'clock so I lounge around in my pyjamas all morning and just brush my hair, take my time on my skin (my La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo SPF30 is giving me a good glow because I can't bathe myself in highlighter) and give my brows a bit of a brush. Although my dad asks if I'm alright because I look a "little pasty" and when I send my mum a picture of myself she just replies, "OH!" Thanks guys.
I'm supposed to be going on a last-minute date tonight but the thought of facing (ahem) that without even a little bit of makeup on really makes me panic – I feel incredibly insecure without it. So I lie and say that I'm not feeling very well and reschedule for next week. If you're reading this, I'm sorry. Instead, I book a mani-pedi – foot massage, hand treatments, the works – at fancy af new salon, Townhouse, just to make myself feel a little more human.
Confession number two: I also spend the day in glasses, partly because I can't see without them and partly because they hide half of my face. I keep my head down at work, so not very many people in the office actually notice I'm not wearing any makeup. I've got away with it!
Day Two
I meet a new PR for breakfast this morning and apologise for my bare face before I even introduce myself properly, which, come to think of it, is so stupidly insecure – note to self, don't apologise for your appearance ever again. But she says she wouldn't have even noticed if I hadn't said anything. Even though we work in the beauty industry, we get talking about how hardly anyone wears a full face of makeup anymore. Instead, the focus is on great skin. I don't tell her I'm acne-prone and that today is just a good skin day. In the bathroom mirror, I pop a spot (gross, I know, but it's not hiding under 10 layers of concealer, so it's getting obliterated) and realise I have to go back into the restaurant with a half-swollen chin. Cool.
On my way back in, the same guy I walk past most mornings gives me a nod, which makes me realise I can't look that different without a full face. When I get back to the office, Nina comes over to show everyone her immaculate makeup, so I take off my glasses and that's when everyone realises I've gone barefaced. Cue a congregation around my desk. Our content director Gillian says I look pretty much the same, so I run with it. Anyway, it's hellishly hot outside and I'm thankful my foundation isn't dripping down my neck. Also, the sun has given me a bit of colour so I'm kinda feeling myself by the evening, hence the slight smile in this picture.
Day Three
I've really broken out along my cheeks, chin and forehead and I'm convinced it's because I keep touching my face with grubby keyboard fingers. When I've got makeup on, I won't go near it out of fear of messing it up, but now I'm picking and prodding all over the place, especially my cheeks. It's also 36 degrees today and my face feels really oily and dirty. I'm so much more aware of bacteria and pollution because in my mind, my makeup is almost shielding my skin from all the crap flying around in the environment. The only good thing is that I can reapply SPF, and I need all the protection I can get in this weather.
In the evening, I have dinner with a beauty brand and there are lots of beauty influencers, all wearing the most beautiful, Instagram-worthy makeup and I feel gross, so I wolf my meal down, sink a couple of glasses of wine and leave promptly. I don't feel like myself at all and try not to look anyone in the eye or make conversation. Thinking about it on the Central Line home, I'm being a bit overdramatic, so I give the cute guy in a suit opposite me a smile and he flashes one back. We get off at the same stop and he tells me I have nice eyes but because I'm a bumbling idiot I say something about not even having any mascara on today, which he doesn't understand because why would he even CARE. Cringe. I decide I'm just going to own this no-makeup thing from now on.
Day Four
I'm still quite spotty, but I've been blasting my face with a new, inexpensive retinol (it's really bloody good and all will be revealed soon) and swapped out my gentle foaming cleanser for Goldfaden MD's Detox Clarifying Wash, £32, which eradicates all the oil, bacteria and dead skin. Hang on. My obsession with makeup has just been replaced with skincare because my face is a little more on show. What can I say? I'm a beauty editor, after all.
It's the weekend and I'm meeting my best friend and her boyfriend for lunch (professional third wheel available for hire) but because they know me well, I don't feel that embarrassed around them. My friend notices I've gone barefaced (and says I look exactly the same) but her boyfriend doesn't. They suggest going out for drinks that evening but the thought of meeting new people without wearing even so much as a slick of mascara makes me a bit anxious, so I lie (again – I think I have a problem now) and say I have a few errands to run and head home instead. When I'm sitting on the sofa watching Blind Date on my tod, I get a wave of FOMO and feel stupid for declining. I vow to go out next time...
What I've learned is that my insecurity is just that – mine. Hardly anyone really cares or notices whether I wear makeup or not. This is absolutely huge for me. I've decided that Mondays are going to be my no-makeup days, so that I get a lie-in and because I've realised the world won't end if I don't wear foundation.
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Craving some sparkling conversation and refreshing perspectives? We've teamed up with Diet Coke for a brilliant new series that’s flipping the script on the hot topics our readers care about most — from confidence and culture to fashion and friendships. 2018 is the year of “A Diet Coke Break With…” hosted by London presenter and DJ, Yinka Bokinni. Trailblazing influencers will join Yinka for eight must-watch episodes packed with fun, lively and thought-provoking banter, inspiring ideas, and soul-baring confessions. It’s raw, it’s authentic, and it’s unmissable.
Episode 5: Travel
Episode 5 sees our host Yinka share a Diet Coke Exotic Mango with Kavita Donkersley, founder of ‘She Wears Fashion’, as they discuss all things travel. Watch as they reflect on Kavita's 10 month travel trip as well as share essential tips for traveling on a budget. This chat is sure to leave you reaching for your passport and planning your next dream adventure.
Episode 4: Festivals
It's finally summer which means one thing... festival season. In episode 4 of 'A Diet Coke Break With...' Yinka shares a Diet Coke Exotic Mango with DJ & model Siobhan Bell. Together they discuss festival survival tips, unforgettable headliners and Siobhan's musical influences.
Episode 3: Weddings
Episode 3 sees our host Yinka share a Diet Coke Feisty Cherry with esteemed fashion writer, editor and creator of blog Work Work Work Katherine Ormerod. Having just had the Royal Wedding because we're in the thick of wedding season they chat all things marriage, hen-do's, engagement parties and that song that always gets you on the dance floor.
Episode 2: Dating
Episode 2 digs deep into the L-word as Yinka welcomes model and influencer Tia Ward to share a Diet Coke Feisty Cherry with her and talk about ending her own high-profile engagement and the heartbreak that followed. The chat gets real about relationships, rejection, and reclaiming your single status — chat-up lines, dating apps, and all.
Episode 1: Mindfulness
First up is a celebration of self-care with model Felicity Hayward to mark Stress Awareness Month in April. Watch as Felicity and Yinka share a Diet Coke Exotic Mango and discuss how to regain confidence when you’re feeling flat, survival tips for managing stress, and why self-love is the most important kind there is.
Stay tuned for even more episodes of "A Diet Coke Break With..." – coming soon!
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Singer-songwriter Ray BLK first saw a gun when she was 15-years-old. She was at a party, there was a bit of a dispute over the music and a guy pulled out a weapon.
Unsurprisingly, it’s an incident that resonated and later became one of the prompts in Ray’s latest single, "Run Run" – a song with upsettingly real references to the gun violence and knife crime situation in the UK right now. The first verse tells a story not far from her own; about a teenage boy at a house party where things turn bad, fast. The second part of the song draws from a time she was burgled while her own mum was still in the house.
"Those two incidents stuck with me, and those are quite common instances that happen where I’m from", she told Radio 1’s Annie Mac when the song dropped on Wednesday. "I wanted to reach out to people who maybe feel like the issue doesn’t concern them. A lot of the time you see it on the TV, on the news, and it feels so detached from you that you can’t really empathise."
The music video is as striking as it is heartbreaking. Directed by Tom Green (who also worked on E4's Misfits), it follows a teenage boy running from the persistent threats of death and violence that surround him. He symbolically climbs a concrete staircase, stepping over pools of blood and bodies of young men before ultimately being struck down by a police officer, marked with a number on his chest and taken away in a van full of young men. It's a sharp reflection of a reality that is too often brushed over and we say, it's definitely worth a watch.
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"And how many units of alcohol do you drink a week?"
"Um..." a pause. "Not much, maybe like, three glasses of wine a week? Small ones. Sometimes even less than that. Except, you know, if there's a birthday. Or a Tuesday - ha, amiright Doc? No, OK, not funny. I'd say like three glasses, maybe four. Absolute max."
The doctor stares at you for what seems like hours over the rims of her glasses, one eyebrow raised in a spectacularly unimpressed manner.
"Fine", she says eventually, turning back to her ancient computer and typing something into your medical chart on her clickety clackety keyboard.
"Phew," you think, "nailed it."
Telling mistruths to the doctor about how many units of alcohol we drink a week is an age-old tradition amongst Brits. Our parents did it, we do it, our kids may do it (although if recent stats about how little younger generations are drinking are anything to go by then they may have nothing to lie about at all), and it's because we feel guilty. Here is a doctor; a person whose job it is to make us well, and we appear determined to undo all of their good work via the medium of Aperol Spritzes.
Even more ridiculous is that we manage to convince ourselves that the doctors believe our lies. We believe that doctors, super smart people who've been through years of extensive training and who, last time we checked, were also human beings, are stupid enough to believe our awkward mutterings about how you intended not to drink last week but then you forgot about a hen do and Prosecco made the planned life-drawing class slightly more appealing.
Now though, a study has proved what really, deep down, we knew all along; THEY KNOW.
The 200 doctors polled for the Direct Line Life Insurance study reckon that just 40% of us are telling the truth about our alcohol intake and in fact, many of them apply an "alcohol multiplier" to our answers which sees some of them double the number of units patients give them.
The reasons they do this are varied. The alcohol multiplier comes into play not solely because they think we're lying, but because 20% of Brits admit to not keeping track of how much they drink and 30% of us have no idea what the actual recommended amount of units per week really is. As a result, many (especially women under 30) are underestimating how much it is they consume.
Whilst lying to the doctor may seem like no big deal, joking aside, drinking above the recommended number of units (FYI it's 14, which equates to a single measure of whisky, a third of a pint of beer, or half a standard glass of red wine) every week isn't a good idea. It's been linked to cancer, poor mental health, liver disease, and, more recently dementia. Lying to your doctor your alcohol consumption is a worse idea - because without the correct information, they're not going to be able to give you the best treatment possible.
If you aren't telling the truth about how much alcohol you drink because it is over the recommended amount and you're worried you can't or won't cut down, then your doctor is exactly the person you should tell, because they can recommend something to help you out.
Also, remember this: doctors have been around the block. They see everyone; from the 99 year old who's never had a drink in their life to the 16-year-old binge drinker. It takes a lot for them to be shocked and they know we're not perfect - because, surprise, they're people too.
If you are worried about your drinking and you want to do something now, visit DrinkAware to find a list of options about who to contact.
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Rents will rise by 2% this year, the RICS estimates, then climb more steeply "over the medium term" because of a shortfall in available rental properties.
The RICS attributes this shortfall to the government's decision to reduce tax relief on buy-to-let properties, making them less appealing to investors.
This policy is supposed to make properties more affordable for first-time buyers by reducing the number of second home buyers flooding the housing market. However, the RICS warned today that it could end up creating extra expense for long-term renters, including millennials saving to get on the property ladder.
"The impact of recent and ongoing tax changes is clearly having a material impact on the buy-to-let sector as intended," said RICS chief economist Simon Rubinsohn. "The risk, as we have highlighted previously, is that a reduced pipeline of supply will gradually feed through into higher rents in the absence of either a significant uplift in the build to rent programme or government funded social housing."
The RICS said today that rent increases are "evident in virtually all parts of the country", so Refinery29 UK asked ten women from across the country to tell us their current rent per calendar month, and how much they could be paying by 2023.
Jess, 30, south-east London. 2018 £540 2023 £620
Amy, 34, Birmingham. 2018 £475 2023 £545
Clara, 28, Margate. 2018 £395 2023 £455
Jazmin, 25, south London. 2018 £780 2023 £900
Olivia, 33, Cardiff. 2018 £445 2023 £510
Anna, 31, Bristol. 2018 £485 2023 £560
Tab, 33, Manchester. 2018 £500 2023 £575
Katy, 37, east London. 2018 £750 2023 £860
Sam, 26, Cambridge. 2018 £635 2023 £730
Clare, 35, Essex. 2018 £760 2023 £875
If average pay in the UK continues to rise at the current rate of 2.6% year-on-year – a big if, admittedly, especially given the potential impact of Brexit – the average person will be earning around 10% more in 2023 than they are now. Still overall, rents are going up faster than our earnings, which means we'll continue to feel the pinch.
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In 2005, when Alexa Rodulfo was still in her 20s, she moved to the United States to make her dreams come true. She had grown up in Juárez, Mexico, opened a successful salon in her hometown (which she still owns), but had a longtime goal of working with the biggest magazines, photographers, and brands in New York City.
Within just four years of moving here, Rodulfo made those dreams come true, earning Vogue profiles that deemed her the "beloved hair and makeup artist to all the girls," with a high-powered list of clients including Margherita Missoni, Carolina Herrera, Wendi Murdoch, and yes, Ivanka Trump.
Rodulfo tells Refinery29 that she started doing Trump's hair and makeup in late 2005 after being introduced through a friend. "Ivanka and her friends were hosting the New York Botanical Garden gala that year and one of her friends was already a client of mine," Rodulfo says. "She booked me to do the hair and the makeup for them, and that’s how we met. Since then, we have been working together."
Normally, of course, working with a makeup artist who immigrated from Mexico wouldn't be that significant. But Trump is the daughter of and adviser to a president who has definite feelings about Rodulfo's country and its people; he has spread lies about Mexican immigrants, supported the policy to forcibly separate migrant families at the U.S.-Mexico border, and is still hellbent on building a literal wall to keep Mexicans out of America. Though Ivanka has personally come out against separating those migrant families just recently, it still makes her beauty connection to Mexico... interesting.
On Rodulfo's Instagram, you can see that people think it's also interesting that she, a Mexican immigrant, is the one who's routinely doing Trump's hair and makeup, including on her 2009 wedding day to Jared Kushner and for the Inauguration. Find the rare picture of Trump on Rodulfo's account and you'll see that while there are many comments supporting her, there are also comments like, "How do you stand next to this woman who has defended her father?"
In March 2017, when Rodulfo posted a blurry picture of Ivanka with the caption, "Work with people that inspire you," one commenter fired back: "She inspires you? To what? To leave the States? To build a wall between you and your country?" Trump has yet to comment on her father's plans for the border wall, which follows her typical pattern of staying silent about issues linked to her father, including the family separation crisis and his sexual misconduct accusations, until it's politically beneficial (or neutral) for her to speak out.
But Rodulfo is adamant that she's never had any negative interaction with Trump or her family because of her heritage. "Ivanka and Jared both love Mexico and have deep respect for my heritage," Rodulfo says. "I have never felt anything from her or her family besides warmth and respect. Not only with Ivanka but also with my other clients, they are very proud of where I come from and what I have accomplished. Everyone knows Ivanka is not only my client, but she has been a wonderful and supportive friend."
She insists that Trump going from red carpet socialite to fashion designer to policy lobbying first daughter hasn't changed how the two operate on a day-to-day basis either, other than the fact that she now has to commute to Washington, D.C. from her home in New York City to see her. Rodulfo hasn't altered her technique or the products she uses on her, including a particular $6 mascara that she routinely picks up from a "naturista" or natural store in her hometown of Juárez. It's not brand name, and is made with avocado seed oil to encourage lash growth. Rodulfo uses it on every client, all of whom love it. She buys it for around 100 pesos.
"Nothing has changed," Rodulfo says of her past year and a half. "While I set up [in her home], she is waking up her kids and spending time with them. Then they all come to the kitchen table where I’m ready for her. It’s really nice to spend family time with them. She plays with her children and they play with my makeup while I work. Then when Ivanka leaves, I stay with [Trump's daughter] Arabella. She loves when I put lipgloss on her or do braids." Rodulfo could not disclose how much she is paid for her services.
"If there is a message to her makeup, it is one of warmth and confidence."
Even if Rodulfo hasn't felt a difference, there is absolutely a heightened level of scrutiny on the appearance of a female political figure, versus a female celebrity. The way they style their hair or wear their makeup can impact how people perceive them. As Melania Trump's hairstylist Mordechai Alvow told Women's Wear Daily back in 2016, he stuck to a signature look to build trust after the election. "We didn’t want to be changing things up," he said. "It was very important psychologically to let people know who she is and show some stability with the look."
Like Melania, Ivanka Trump does have a consistent hair and makeup look — smooth buttery blonde hair, smoky eyes, pink lips — but Rodulfo herself hasn't been privy to any sort of hidden message. "I don’t think she is sending any message with her makeup," Rodulfo says. "She prefers natural, warm, clean makeup. If there is a message to her makeup, it is one of warmth and confidence. She does not use her makeup as a mask to hide from the world or help her assume a character."
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This time last year, Detroit had only been out for a couple of weeks, but I was already traumatised by it. The Kathryn Bigelow-directed film is a fictional account of the incidents leading up to, and following, a real-life violent altercation between police and civilians at the Algiers Motel in 1967 — three black men were horrifically killed and several others were beaten, tortured, and intimidated alongside two white women as the police followed a cold lead on the source of audible gunfire.
Detroit was timely, given that — thanks to the movement for black lives 50 years after the Algiers Motel incident — America was finally being forced to confront the terror that militarised police inflict on black communities. But that didn’t make it easier to watch. In fact, Detroit was unbearably incensing and disheartening precisely because of its relevance. As one of the only black viewers in the small cinema, I left feeling uneasy, unsafe, and wary of faces that didn’t look like mine. So much so that I took a personal day off work following the screening. As some would say, I had to “call in black.”
History is important, but Detroit wasn’t educational or instructive. It felt like trauma-porn and I’d had enough of it. From the news to my social media feeds, black pain was embedded into so much of the media I consumed. I had seen enough viral videos of police shootings to fuel my nightmares for the rest of my life. Shows were capitalising off of this sensationalism by constantly engaging shooting-turns-to-protest storylines. I dreamt of a break from it all. A year later, I’m finally feeling like filmmakers heard me.
What’s changed? A sudden emergence of movies, helmed by black folks, that have all allowed me to go through a range of emotions other than trauma when relating to black people on screen. We got a preview of this shift with Jordan Peele’s 2017 directorial debut, Get Out, where he combined the conventions of both horror and comedy to nail down the unique trappings of liberal racism, while highlighting the subtle dangers of cultural appropriation. This summer alone has seen several big films that take creative deep dives into the intersection of institutional racism and black life. Sorry to Bother You, Blindspotting, and BlacKkKlansman are all different from Detroit because they were actually enjoyable, but no less weighty. They all had a liveliness that made me feel good about my decision to see all of them, and perhaps most importantly, I didn’t need to take a day to mentally recharge.
Contrast this with how the news heavily pushed a barrage of stories about innocent black people being killed by police officers and vigilantes; and later transitioned to coverage of the resurgence of white nationalism in the months since Trump was elected. Then, scripted television also capitalised off of the fervour in America’s racial tension and its deadly effects by producing impulsive shows like FOX’s Shots Fired and Netflix’s Seven Seconds. Recurring shows like Star and Empire on FOX incorporated Black Lives Matter as plot points. Just this season, Orange is the New Black has framed Taystee’s (Danielle Brooks) trial in the context of BLM-inspired protests. What all of these television portrayals did was delimit blackness to homogenous grief and tragedy.
In 2018, that seemed to change. Black Lives Matter oozed onto the big screen and got a much needed remix. This summer alone has seen several big films that take creative deep dives into the intersection of institutional racism and black life.
Boots Riley — the rapping frontman for musical groups The Coup and Street Sweeper Social Club — made his feature film directorial debut this year with the experimental Sorry to Bother You. This mindfuck of a film (seriously, there is no other way to describe it) questioned how black people are pushed to participate in capitalism to escape poverty. Its protagonist Cash (LaKeith Stanfield) works for a call centre that sells modern slave labor to big corporations, and becomes an unexpected star employee thanks to his deployment of a hilariously deceptive “white voice.” Murder at the hands of police or extreme vigilante isn’t at the centre of Sorry to Bother You, but the disregard of black bodies and the stereotypes that have been used to validate our mistreatment converge when the ruthless CEO of the corporation that produces slave labor (Armie Hammer) begins to turn human beings into half-horse creatures.
Just a week after Sorry to Bother You, Blindspotting hit cinemas across the country. With only a few days left of his post-prison, year-long probation, Collin ( Hamilton ’s Daveed Diggs, who also co-wrote and co-produced the movie along with his costar, Rafael Casal) witnesses the police shooting of an unarmed black man. In the immediate aftermath, Collin must contend with his own post-traumatic anxiety while navigating the trouble caused by his best friend — a slick-talking, hot-headed white boy named Miles (Casal) whose skin privilege has helped him evade the same legal troubles that Collin has faced. Blindspotting is edge-of-your-seat intense at times, especially when the presence of police intervention looms almost constantly as a threat to Collin’s fresh freedom. However, Diggs’ use of comedy and rap — the technique that made Hamilton so special— makes the viewing experience less fraught. Musical breaks gave state-sanctioned violence a magical realism feel, and somehow it worked.
Tomorrow, Spike Lee’s latest film, BlacKkKlansman, will do the same. The biographical film recounts the experiences of Ron Stallworth (played by John David Washington), the first black officer in the Colorado Springs Police Department, as he successfully infiltrated a local branch of the Ku Klux Klan by disguising his voice over the phone. Despite Lee’s annoying habit of beating viewers over the head with social messages, he managed to inject BlacKkKlansman with an effective mix of beauty, pain, humour, and realness, mimicking the reality of what it means to be black in America, even with the effects of racism shaping our existence.
What these films do is acknowledge that black death and struggle is a heartbreaking matter, but that confronting it doesn’t have to mean requiring black people to break their hearts over and over again. Combining playful elements of comedy and surrealism into portrayals of this truth does not negate it. Blackness is not tied exclusively to angst. We relish in joy, happiness, and laughter not in spite of our circumstances, but oftentimes as a form of resistance against them. Blackness is rich and plentiful, which means that our lives matter even when we aren’t clapping back at white supremacy and anti-Blackness.
The truth is that being black is hard. Having that anguish acknowledged and reflected in the media we consume is important. But it is also important that black people are not asked to constantly watch sensationalised versions of their own trauma over and over again. black stories told for entertainment should be told from 360-degree angles, capturing our ups and our downs, and to soothe our pains us as much as it should remind us of our realities. I want more shows and films that remind me to laugh, as if I could ever forget that there are so many more reasons to cry.
And most importantly, don’t give me another damn movie that makes me feel like I have to call in black.
R29 Unbothered presents Trap Glazed, a bi-weekly column where Senior Entertainment Writer Sesali Bowen looks deeper at what’s happening in black pop culture.
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Believe it or not, we're already careening towards end of summer. And if you've noticed that you're feeling a little more anxious than usual this season, you're not alone. The summer season can be a harbinger of fun, and that's exactly why it can make some of us a little more distressed.
Lindsay Henderson, PsyD, a psychologist who treats patients via telehealth app, LiveHealth Online, says that the expectations we all have about summer can actually contribute to feelings of anxiety and depression.
"The pressure to participate in everything is a real factor in our moods," she says. "This idea of FOMO and seeing the fun other people are having on social media, that just makes all of that worse. You think, I should have had so much fun by now, because there’s only so much left of summer."
"In the winter you might go hibernate and your energy is dampened and the volume gets turned down on everything," Dr. Henderson says. "The heat can really ramp up the volume so it can be unsettling and agitating to people, it makes people really cranky."
More than that, if you're someone who frequently experiences anxiety and panic attacks, you might find that the summer heat has the same effect as some symptoms of panic.
"Symptoms like sweating, feeling faint or shaky, feeling nauseous, having heart palpitations — all these things can happen both due to heat and panic or anxiety," Dr. Henderson says. "For someone who might have a history of struggling with panic and anxiety, if you’re all of a sudden sweating because it’s 95 degrees outside, those physical symptoms can trigger really intense anxiety memories and heighten your anxiety and panic in the moment."
The heat can really ramp up the volume so it can be unsettling and agitating to people, it makes people really cranky.
Plus, the extended amount of sunlight can mess with your sleep cycle and overall schedule. Dr. Henderson says that if you're sensitive to light, the sun being up for earlier and longer can make you wake up earlier, throwing off your rhythm.
There are plenty of reasons you might be feeling more anxious than usual this season — and if you're trying to get rid of some summer anxiety, she suggests trying to pinpoint what it is that's putting you on edge (and talking it out with a friend or therapist if you need to).
"Maybe it’s a little bit of everything but pinpointing what it is that disrupts your mood is an important part of making changes," Dr. Henderson says, adding that if the heat is what's getting you down, you might need to just stay inside one day with the shades drawn, Netflix on, and the air conditioner blasting.
"We often feel guilty about being inside when it’s nice out, but sometimes that’s what our bodies and minds need," she says.
If you are experiencing anxiety and are in need of crisis support, please contact Samaritans on 116 123. All calls are free and will be answered in confidence.
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Sometimes it feels like astrology only exists to bring you bad, anxiety-inducing news. We swear, the cosmos can be nice sometimes — just not right now or next week, for that matter, and it's mostly due to Mars. If there's one retrograde that's defined this summer of retrogrades, it's the backspin that the red planet of anger, action, and altercation, entered back on June 26.
Since then, you may have found it especially difficult to make much progress on your plans. You might even be struggling to express your anger without totally blowing up at an innocent party. Such is the way of Mars retrograde: It shows up to remind us that forging ahead, regardless of what's in our way, isn't always the best move. Ideally, we emerge from these periods knowing a little more about our tempers, impulses — and, most importantly, how to rein them in. The end of this period may be in sight (Mars goes direct on August 27), but we're not finished yet. In fact, the hardest part may only lie ahead.
On Monday, August 13, Mars will move from Aquarius into Capricorn while still retrograde. Where you felt challenged in how you relate and work with others under the retrograde in Aquarius, you'll feel Mars' effects more intensely in your life at work when it switches over to the sign of the Goat. Astrologer Sharita Star writes that this movement may also throw your ambitions and responsibilities into sharper relief, with little regard to whether all this celestial attention stresses you out.
In other words, if you thought you were tense in the last month, that may have been merely a warmup for next week. Capricorn emphasises the importance of making progress and Mars retrograde is all about stalling progress — it's no wonder this would make for an unhappy union. If you find yourself getting frustrated, just remember what astrologer Kimberly Peta Dewhirst told us in June: "Don't push ahead, don't force or forge forwards." Instead, lean into those end-of-summer vibes and try to go with the flow.
The upside here is that Mars will still be in Capricorn when it goes direct on the 27th. And if you've been trying to make major moves, especially in your career or community at large, this will be a very advantageous placement. This planet-sign duo is pretty darn unstoppable, if not a little crafty, when it comes to getting what it wants. See, like we said — sometimes astrology news is good news.
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Ahead of his upcoming film, The Old Man & The Gun, Casey Affleck spoke with the Associated Press about his work on the film, and also addressed the #MeToo movement that’s gripped Hollywood and beyond following last fall’s allegations of sexual misconduct against producer Harvey Weinstein and other prominent men.
Specifically, the Manchester By the Sea actor was asked about his decision to not present the Best Actress award at the 2018 Oscars (it’s traditional for the previous year’s Best Actor winner to hand out the honour), and told the AP that it was “the right thing to do just given everything that was going on in our culture at the moment.”
It’s also thought that Affleck’s decision to abstain from presenting was due to two 2010 sexual harassment lawsuits filed by two women on the set of I’m Still Here, which Affleck produced. Affleck has denied the allegations in the lawsuits, and both were settled out of court for an undisclosed amount of money, according to Time.
Affleck told the outlet he “had never had any complaints like that made about me before in my life and it was really embarrassing and I didn’t know how to handle it and I didn’t agree with everything, the way I was being described, and the things that were said about me, but I wanted to try to make it right, so we made it right in the way that was asked at the time.” Out of respect to the women’s privacy, he says he now wants to close the door on that chapter.
As for the #MeToo movement, the actor said he “learned a lot” from the public conversation, and it changed his perspective on the allegations.
“I kind of moved from a place of being defensive to one of a more mature point of view, trying to find my own culpability,” he explained. “And once I did that I discovered there was a lot to learn. I was a boss. I was one of the producers on the set...The cast was the crew and the crew was kind of the cast and it was an unprofessional environment and, you know, the buck had to stop with me being one of the producers and I have to accept responsibility for that and that was a mistake. And I contributed to that unprofessional environment and I tolerated that kind of behaviour from other people and I wish that I hadn’t.”
Affleck admitted his behaviour allowed for an unprofessional environment for which he apologised, and now he’s ready to make changes moving forward — ones that will hopefully help the entire industry.
“In this business women have been underrepresented and underpaid and objectified and diminished and humiliated and belittled in a bazillion ways and just generally had a mountain of grief thrown at them forever,” he said. “And no one was really making too much of a fuss about it, myself included, until a few women with the kind of courage and wisdom to stand up and say, ‘You know what? Enough is enough.’”
While he cedes the majority of the conversation to the women who are already leading it with organisations like Time’s Up, Affleck stresses he’s here to help.
“I know just enough to know that in general I need to keep my mouth shut and listen and try to figure out what’s going on,” he added. “And be a supporter and a follower in the little, teeny tiny ways that I can.”
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I’m starting to see lash primers crop up in a few Instagram posts again. Honestly, they give me '90s Tippex-white flashbacks, but should I give them a try?
Nicola, 27
The '90s gave us a lot of very important beauty moments: brown lipliner, skinny brows (which are poised for a comeback, if you ask Rihanna), the 'Rachel', rusty-tone blush and, of course, everything Kevyn Aucoin ever did. But I’m with you here – some trends deserve to go the way of glittery butterfly hair clips, and stay there.
Lash primers are indeed having a renaissance, and I do think they warrant a place in your makeup bag if you feel your lashes are somewhat lacking, or if you really struggle to keep mascara on all day. They can work in a few different ways; at their simplest, they provide a slightly tackier surface on which you apply your mascara, which helps with adhesion. You know how much better it feels to apply lipstick on a freshly balmed pout? Well, this is similar. It will smooth on better and slightly more evenly, and hopefully dry down with a bit more staying power – like regular face primer.
Then, there’s sometimes the promise of 'lash-boosting' technology – amino protein complexes or vitamin E are popular additions. While these things can totally make your lashes feel a bit softer (unlike mascara, where even the most natural-looking is going to add some crunch), the concentrations of these ingredients are usually too small to have a noticeable impact. If you want to condition your lashes, you’re better off trying something like RapidLash, £31.47, before bed.
The other benefit is that because a lot of lash primers are white, they 'highlight' your lashes nicely. Essentially, when your lashes are dark and you apply another dark-coloured product on top (mascara), you can quite easily miss bits. Sure, it’s only millimetres, but every tiny, tiny bit counts when it comes to lashes. Coating them in something white first will help 'pick up' the full length of every lash, so your lashes will probably look longer for it.
Then you have the kind of lash primers that really don’t come to play: the nylon fibre ones. When you apply these to your lashes, they sort of coat your lashes with extra bulk and length, kind of like the most temporary lash extensions ever. When you apply the matching mascara over the top (you usually get them as a duo, like L'Oréal Paris Superstar Mascara, £11.99, though not always), it makes for some pretty serious volume. These are especially good if you didn’t luck out gene-wise in the lash department, and they’re much kinder to your lashes than real extensions.
Got a question for our resident beauty columnist Daniela Morosini? No problem, qualm or dilemma is too big, small or niche. Emaildeardaniela@refinery29.uk, including your name and age for a chance to have your question answered. All letters to ‘Dear Daniela’ become the property of Refinery29 and will be edited for length, clarity, and grammatical correctness.
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It is a truth universally acknowledged that a Punkyfish gal never dies. Strong of spirit, true of mind, you were the gal every other gal wanted to be. Yes, we may have ostracised you because you said that Ashleigh couldn’t dance (even though she couldn’t) after that Year 9 show where we all did an inappropriately sexual jazz routine to "Walk on Water" by Milk Inc.; yes, we may have bitched behind your back that time you dyed your hair black-in-some-light-blue-in-others because it was totally at odds with your impressively matte complexion. But in truth, Leonie, you harnessed a style, a power, an attitude, a sense of self for which the rest of us hungered desperately late at night in our bedrooms as we raged with the stench of existential oblivion and So…? Kiss Me. While everyone thought we loved Lancôme Juicy Tubes, secretly we pined to see Blink 182 in Manchester, like you had, and wished we had the guts to pierce our ears with an unsterilised safety pin and an apple, like you did.
It was the best of times, it was the savagest of times. While we were busy getting nicotine rushes off a Berkeley Superkings Menthol behind the drama block and assuming a deep and meaningful connection with eight other people based solely on being mean about the bushiness of our classmates' eyebrows (while we overplucked our own), you did not care for high school fripperies. You did well in maths, you did well in English, you did well in geography, for God’s sake. You had the aplomb to come to the Year 9 disco in a top which had a diagonal zip across the boobs and a fishnet mesh sleeve, paired with a mini-fucking-backpack and a dinky necklace from which dangled, unfathomably, an enamel fish with a septum piercing.
In the beginning, God created heaven and Punkyfish. And you were a punky fish: misunderstood with a deep understanding of what was actually cool. You, like aforementioned fish, had freaky piercings before Maria Tash made freaky piercings the ultimate signifier of the rich white woman. You wore black to prom. You took those garments — those garments teeming with a cacophony of complex political and subcultural references — and made them look like a second skin. You encompassed punk, rave, nu-rave, the '90s E-years, BDSM, grunge, goth and myriad references we (me) wouldn’t discover until we moved to London and got bummed in a Vauxhall alleyway by a leather daddy who would turn out to be our gateway drug into coffee table books full of all these subcultures which you, dear punky fish, had embraced at the age of 12.
It was a bright, cold day in April, and the clocks were striking thirteen (are these literary references working still? I googled 'best book openings ever' but it isn’t really adding much at this point). But where did you get these garments? Had you been cool enough to go to Camden? Had you been savvy enough to order over the phone? Did you have a debit card already? Or did you use your mum’s?
The past is a foreign country: they do things differently there. And in truth, if I could go back, I would do things differently, too. Instead of stalking your MySpace yet never telling you how incredible you looked in those black elephant jeans with white stitching, I would have uplifted you as a cultural soothsayer who was keyed into the future, the past and the fourth dimension. It’s no surprise that you’re now the coolest person I follow on Instagram. It’s no surprise that you’re making waves in the fields of coding, tech, science, medicine, fashion, art, journalism, tattooing. It’s no surprise that you run a pole dancing class for female-identifying goths. You, Leonie, were always an inspiration. We were all thinking it, we were just too stifled by our own lack of individuality ever to say it.
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Narcissism is a word we’ve been seeing a lot of recently.
It’s been coming up in politics, with people pointing fingers at Donald Trump (this from-afar diagnosis was going on way before his presidency, btw), in social media ("omg that girl’s posted so many selfies she’s such a narcissist") and of course, in dating – how many times have I chucked the term "classic narcissist" out there to make a friend feel better about a bad date? Answer: a lot.
But are we actually using the term in the correct way? Or has it, like "gaslighting", "anxiety " and many other very-serious-indeed terms, become such a ubiquitous part of popular parlance that we're at risk of forgetting the gravity of its meaning altogether?
Writer Marianne Vicelich’s new book should go some way to helping us gain a proper understanding of the term. Destruction: Free Yourself From The Narcissist is an easy-to-read, self-help text, all about identifying and dealing with narcissists in your life. Hell, there’s even a quiz in there to figure out if you’re a narcissist. I’m not (much) by the way, but thanks for asking.
"The thing that people tend to get wrong about narcissism is that they think that anyone who has confidence or is self-assured is a narcissist. But it’s actually the opposite," Marianne tells me. A narcissist, she says, is actually someone lacking in self-esteem.
"The key point about narcissism is that this person has no sense of self, and so they look to the external world for validation, every day of their life," Marianne says. "They are always very charming, we find them attractive, and they drive the fancy cars because they’re looking for that validation to prop themselves up." But, she warns, though they may be alluring, they lack empathy and compassion, and that’s what causes the issues.
Many of us may suspect that we are already dealing with people with narcissistic traits in our everyday lives, and it can be tough going spending time around someone who, for lack of a better description, regularly acts like a 4-year-old.
Here, Marianne gives her advice on how to identify and tackle a narcissist, no matter what area of your life they're in.
If it’s your boss
"You can detect a narcissistic boss by the way they treat you," Marianne says. "If they undermine you, if it's all about them, if they don't show leadership, if they put you down, are constantly criticising you…"
Once you’ve identified a narcissistic boss though, she says it can be hard to know how to move forward; having it out with your boss in the middle of the office isn’t really a great situation for anyone.
"It's really just having healthy boundaries," Marianne says, and advises trying to understand what they’re about and back off when necessary. "It's almost like you need to feed their ego, it's the only way you can identify with a boss like that. Challenging them is the worst thing to do because that highlights their fragile ego."
"When you’re dealing with someone [like this], they will do anything to undermine you, to make you feel unworthy."
If, like me, the idea of indulging a narcissist who has the unfortunate luxury of being in charge of you makes you want to turn to drink and hide under a very big rock, then it’s probably time to start looking for a new job.
If it’s someone you’re dating
First things first: "If there is emotional abuse involved then walk away, it never gets easier," Marianne says. "If he lacks empathy and compassion, that will never change, so walk away."
Dating a narcissist doesn't seem advisable to me but if you are, Marianne says that setting boundaries and remaining in control of the situation is key. "But if you argue with them and they tend to retaliate, then it's a very toxic relationship." Again, you need to walk away.
Unfortunately, many of us are easily attracted to narcissists. "If you have a need for validation, you're going to attract someone who needs control so it's really about your own self-esteem," she says. "Once you raise your confidence and are in control [of your own sense of self], you're going to repel someone like that; they won’t even come into your life because they can’t see your weaknesses, your vulnerabilities, and that's what they like."
"They like someone they can manipulate," she says firmly.
Long story short? For your own good, if you’re dating a narcissist, GTFO.
If it’s your friend
"Jealousy is always a good indicator," Marianne says about identifying a narcissistic friend. "If you're in a friendship and she's jealous of you, that's always a very good sign. Because [narcissists] are always comparing themselves, they are always looking for validation. In a healthy friendship, she would be able to say, 'Wow, you're doing so well, that's so great'. Narcissists are not capable of doing that." They may try to put you down, she continues, or undermine you, copy you or have no compassion. "They might pick up the phone and all they want to do is talk about them," Marianne says. "Like, the whole conversation revolves around them."
Talking to them about this behaviour probably won’t prove hugely successful either, she says. "Because their whole world revolves around them, if you do that they will see it as 'Oh that person is being mean to me,' and so they'll retaliate."
So again, Marianne says, you have to ask yourself, "What are you getting back out of the friendship?"
If it’s a family member
Dealing with narcissistic family members is incredibly tough, Marianne says. The best approach is to, “form very strong boundaries and don’t allow them into your inner core. When you see them, meet them at a superficial level to eliminate personal attack or hurt." Successfully emotionally detaching yourself, she says, is most effective way to lessen the affect they can have on you.
Family members, for many complicated reasons, aren’t always people you can easily disentangle yourself from; just cutting them out isn't always an option."They can always do things that hurt you but if you're taking yourself out of that emotional fray then you're not going to get affected. You have to prepare yourself and be mindful of keeping those strong boundaries at all times."
Destruction: Free Yourself From The Narcissist by Marianne Vicelich is out now.
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The style set descends on Denmark once again for Copenhagen Fashion Week, where we'll be seeing a host of collections for SS19 from our favourite Scandinavian designers.
The most-anticipated shows? Ganni, of course, the brand that's dominated our Instagram feeds for the past few years with floral wrap dresses, cosy rainbow knits and puff-sleeved blouses. By Malene Birger will be presenting its signature grown-up staples – think work-appropriate co-ords, structured blazers and poplin shirts. Cecilie Bahnsen's froufrou dresses and smocks will sate our hunger for hyper femininity, while Saks Potts will have us wrapped up in colour-pop fuzzy coats.
It's not all about the show schedule, though. A flock of influencers and editors – Jeanette Madsen, Emili Sindlev and Stephanie Broek, to name a few – will be gracing the front row, bringing us styling tips in abundance thanks to their enviable sartorial flair.
Click through to see the best looks spotted at Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Stephanie Broek is every girl we wanted to dress like in the '90s here. The more clashing prints, the better.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images
Bettina Looney's billowing white dress was ideal for beating the heat in Copenhagen. Her slicked-back hair and playful footwear stops it veering into Victoriana territory.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images
Chunky sneakers aren't going anywhere, and Balenciaga's are still the favourites. As proven here, they go just as well with colour-blocked brights as with grown up check.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images
Courtney Trop makes a strong case for the short suit. The chicest answer to our summer workwear dilemmas?
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images
We told you outrageous printed shirts were back! Just add cycling shorts and a sweet little box bag.
Dresses in all colour-ways and styles dominated the street style at CPHFW. Top marks to this gang for their colourful choice of background.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images
Cher Horowitz would be proud. This contemporary Clueless inspired ensemble pairs the signature checked skirtsuit with classic 90's PVC sandals and name initial necklace. We think the 'W' stands for "where has this outfit been all my life?"
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Emili Sindlev's convinced us: Havaianas are back. Keep it cool with a waterfall-hemmed skirt and oversized shirt – plus Dior's Saddle bag, of course.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Tine Andrea proves that the suit is still going strong, particularly when paired with trainers, a classic white T-shirt and plenty of gold jewellery for a more casual look.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Hair slides? Check. Beaded bag? Check. Shell necklace? Yes please - add a whimsical star studded dress and that's how we'll be testing summer's favourite trends in one winning look.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Streetwear and workwear combine effortlessly in this tonal look. Pair a buttermilk yellow button up shirt with honey yellow pointed-toe pumps, then add black to break up the monochrome.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Arguably, the feminine prairie dress is summer's favourite frock. We're loving how the chunky trainers balance out these looks and the bucket bags tie it all together.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
This contemporary take on Western dressing is right up our street. Replace cowboy boots with chunky trainers, make your denim ruffled, not structured, and add rodeo-esque accessories.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
A statement, architectural heel is a great conversation piece that can elevate an entire look - and don't forget your structured mini bag.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
The bucket hat shouldn't be kept for festivals, as this street styler makes clear. A belt bag and fan bring this gingham Ganni dress to life.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
It's all about the details and the white stitching make these head-to-toe black outfits pop.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Nina Sandbech does colour drenching with aplomb. Just bring together various shades of pink and don some cat-eye shades.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Lisa Hahnbueck and Sonia Lyson both work white perfectly here. Just add neutrals and a splash of brights – plus a statement bag – and you've got summer in the city sorted.
A structured, oversized blazer, cycling shorts and animal print are recurring favourites for Copenhagen's street stylers - also, we spot another shell choker necklace in the mix.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Bored of your basket bag? Make way for a structured acrylic number instead. Just add mules.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Lisa Hahnbueck proves that neutrals are the perfect antidote to the oversaturated pastel trend. Her Samsoe & Samsoe two-piece just needs a slogan LV bag.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Trine Kjaer doubles up on Burberry. A second sighting of flip flops may tempt us to leave our Birkenstocks at home.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
For many of us, our mobile is our most prized accessory so why not give our digital double the recognition she deserves? Just add some cool shades and equally strappy sandals.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Sonia Lyson's oversized Ganni sweater breaks up her head-to-toe zebra print. Dior's Saddle bag, fresh kicks and sharp sunnies pull it all together.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
Sophia Roe is a vision in this semolina-hued get-up. White heels make the pastel shade pop.
Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images.
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