As beauty lovers in 2018, we're more informed than ever about how to take care of our skin, and it's mainly down to the wealth of skin knowledge readily available online.
But while influencers and self-professed 'skintellectuals' rule the digital space, who we’re looking to for product recommendations and guidance on skincare is changing. In fact, market research by Euromonitor International suggests that the growing number of sponsored posts on social media makes consumers sceptical of blogger advice. Instead, we’re heading straight to the experts, especially as more and more dermatologists, aestheticians and credible doctors are launching their own results-driven products. Who knows more about skincare than an actual professional, right?
Serums, moisturisers and cleansers to name but a few beauty buys created by said specialists promise to sort out everything from breakouts to pigmentation, rosacea to eczema, and the ranges are often the closest some of us can get to an appointment with a professional, which can be costly. Standard London prices for a private consultant dermatologist appointment, if you do not have medical insurance, can start from £250, according to Dr. Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic and author of The Skincare Bible. And that's before we've touched on the long waiting list.
Ahead, you'll find the very best expert-developed skincare products worth stockpiling.
The expert: Dr Sam Bunting
According to Dr Sam Bunting, women are hopping between too many products or choosing the wrong ones to address specific skin concerns. "I was struck by the number of patients I was seeing who were attempting to solve problem skin with elaborate cleansing routines and despite these efforts, were ending up with dull, bumpy and irritated skin," she told R29. "I decided to take matters into my own hands and create a cleanser that met my own uncompromising needs and disrupted the trend-driven cleansing market, by going back to basics."
The product: Dr. Sam's Flawless Cleanser, £16, available at Dr. Sam Bunting
Cleansing is arguably one of the most important steps in your skincare routine – it removes excess oil, grime and makeup, and gives your skincare a better chance at working. This lightweight cleansing jelly is effective as both a first and second cleanse for those who double cleanse in the evening. Formulated to leave skin clean and silky without tightness, it’s particularly efficacious for blemish-prone and sensitive skin, according to Dr Sam. Massage into damp skin for one minute, rinse and pat dry.
The expert: Dr Dennis Gross
The OG of acids if you will, Dr Dennis Gross believes the amount of information available on the internet is both a blessing and a curse. "Some of my patients turn to reliable, research sources for skincare education, while others rely mostly on different voices on the internet who might not have the same credentials. Some of my patients understand that daily, chemical exfoliation will stimulate collagen while others might think that ingesting collagen will have the same effect, which is a myth. Dermatologist-led brands offer a level of expertise and efficacy."
The product: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel Pack Of 5, £16.50, available at Cult Beauty
This is the only peel on the market to combine five alpha and beta hydroxy acids including glycolic, salicylic and lactic acid, as well as retinol. It comes in a two-treatment sachet. Massage the pads onto your skin in the evening to lessen depth of fine lines and breakouts, reduce visibility of pores, and to fade pigmentation.
The expert: Dr Marie Drago
Gallinée was one of the first brands to introduce probiotics across an entire skincare range, and the origins of the brand are rooted in Dr Drago’s own experience with Crohn’s disease. After a course of antibiotics, she switched her diet to a purely probiotic one and her symptoms improved, so she translated this into skincare. Her formulas are specifically designed to take care of your microbiome: the good bacteria and microorganisms that live on healthy, hydrated skin. "In our products we use the lactobacillus type of probiotic, which usually has been deactivated," Marie told R29.
The product: Gallinée Face Mask and Scrub, £17.90, available at Gallinée
The biotic complex in this mask comprises lactic acid to help smooth the skin, and prebiotics, basically nutrients for the good bacteria. You get the gentle exfoliation of a scrub combined with the targeted mask treatment which cleanses, brightens and refines skin, leaving it clearer and brighter over time.
The expert: Professor Augustinus Bader
Bader began developing treatments for children suffering from severe burns and soon became a pioneer in the study of stem cells, researching treatments that would provide scar-free healing. His first medical breakthrough came in the form of Hydrogel technology, which eliminates the need for skin grafts, scar revision and minimises infection.
Professor Bader told Refinery29 that he decided to create his eponymous skincare brand to provide a platform for continued research and development in the field of stem cell physiology and science. "I saw the opportunity to apply the technology I initially only developed for medical products now to the consumer market to raise funds to help develop the medical side and to eventually provide medical treatments to those of greatest need."
The product: Augustinus Bader The Cream, £205, available at Augustinus Bader
Yes, this is expensive, but the science behind it is really impressive. It contains Bader's famous Trigger Factor Complex: natural amino acids and high-grade vitamins which, when applied, create the optimal environment for your body to repair damaged, dehydrated skin. With continued use, age spots, redness and wrinkles appear reduced and skin looks and feels more supple. You only have to read the reviews to be convinced. Plus, 10% of the profits of each product goes to the Augustinus Bader Foundation, providing the funding to bring medical treatment to those who need it most.
The expert: Dr Zein Obagi
Championed by beauty editors, dermatologists and expert facialists like Kate Kerr, Zein Obagi MD's skincare brand has long pioneered targeting skin health as the most effective method of treating skin ailments, such as acne. His extensive line of products is the result of his ongoing research and clinical training.
The product: ZO Skin Health Offects TE-Pads Acne Pore Treatment, available at ZO Skin Health
These round pads are drenched in 2% salicylic acid, which acts as an anti-inflammatory and exfoliates the top layer of skin to fade blemishes. The BHA (beta hydroxy acid) also penetrates pores and breaks down the glue-like mixture of oil and dead skin that can lead to blackheads. After cleansing, simply swipe the pad onto your face, wait for your skin to dry and follow with your usual skincare.
The expert: Dr Maryam Zamani
Dr Maryam Zamani created her scientifically backed, clinically tested product range, MZ Skin, to specifically address the key causes of ageing skin with a three-step philosophy in mind: reveal, enhance and protect. Products aid cell renewal, hydrate deeply and leave skin feeling nourished. According to Dr Zamani, having a simple, manageable skincare regime that works (instead of dabbling in lots of different products, as many of us tend to do) is essential for producing excellent results.
The product: MZ Skin Hydra-Bright Golden Eye Treatment Eye Masks, £65 for 5, available at MZ Skin
Including collagen, hyaluronic acid and a complex of active ingredients, these jelly-like masks restore lost hydration, minimise the appearance of fine lines and improve elasticity around the eye area. They are also infused with tiny gold particles which are said to add radiance and boost luminosity in dull skin. The Brighten & Perfect serum is another product to keep your eye on. Although it’s an expensive investment at £245, it’s a game-changer for sallow, dull and hyper pigmented skin, thanks to 10% vitamin C.
The expert: Dr Barbara Sturm
Dr Sturm is a German specialist in aesthetic medicine and molecular cosmetics. "It took me years of scientific research, academic collaborations and formulation testing to find all the right ingredients and products to achieve the consistency and effect I wanted in my products," she told R29. With this in mind, Dr Sturm’s range seeks to remedy the often aggressive approaches many consumers are taking, such as overusing acids. "Overuse can strip your skin bare and leave it vulnerable instead of supporting it. That's why I wanted my products to promote nutrition, hydration and cell health using ingredients that have strong anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and anti-oxidative effects."
The product: Dr Barbara Sturm Enzyme Cleanser, £50, available at Cult Beauty
Dr Sturm’s enzyme cleanser is a gentle foam wash and enzymatic peel in one. On contact with water, the finely grained powder creates a soft foam that delivers a gentle yet intensive cleanse, exfoliates dead skin cells, stimulates cell turnover and minimises the production of excess oil. Vitamin C and enzymes allow any active ingredients you apply afterwards to absorb faster. Add it into your routine two or three times a week as you would with any exfoliant, or if you have oilier skin, try it daily.
The expert: A team of board-certified dermatologists in the USA.
You might have heard of cult US skincare brand CeraVe, and you should definitely believe the hype. The mainstay ingredient in all CeraVe's products are ceramides – alongside cholesterol and fatty acids, they hold the skin barrier together. Without them, skin can become dry, cracked and sore. "There is considerable scientific literature (spanning the past two decades) describing their critical role in the maintenance of an effective skin barrier function," explains Dr Christopher Hensby, expert for CeraVe. Think of ceramides as scaffolding in between skin cells.
The product: CeraVe Moisturising Cream, £14.50, available at Boots
Three essential ceramides and hydrating hyaluronic acid work to repair and intensely moisturise eczema- and dermatitis-prone skin. It may look thick and super rich, but it absorbs in seconds and leaves skin feeling silky, not sticky.
The expert: Pamela Marshall
Clinical aesthetician Pamela Marshall created a treatment space and clinic in Fulham, called Mortar & Milk, because she was frustrated with what the beauty industry had to offer. "Consumers are realising that for serious issues they need to turn to an expert and expert products," she told R29. The clinic sells an abundance of handpicked specialist brands both in store and online.
The product: Exuviance Night Renewal HydraGel, £38, available at Mortar & Milk
While Exuviance isn't Pamela's own brand, it has been specially chosen by herself. It was founded by Dr Eugene Van Scott and Dr Ruey Yu, who are recognised for making the groundbreaking discovery that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have a profound beneficial effect on skin. Now developed into a range of cosmetic dermatological products addressing every skin concern, their Night Renewal HydraGel moisturiser is a standout for its lightweight texture and ability to improve radiance and hydration, and blur pores.
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