I first started climbing in 2013, wearing an old pair of someone else's shoes, scrabbling across damp Massachusetts rock, with a belayer who only kind of remembered how to set up her ATC (a device that maintains tension on a climbing rope). I've since learned the value of a good pair of shoes and the importance of triple-checking the safety of my gear and surroundings, but even under those shoddy circumstances I knew rock climbing was the sport for me.
Rock climbing, along with other outdoor activities, was named one of the American College of Sports Medicine's top fitness trends of 2018. Its rise to popularity is undeniable, and if you give it a try and get bit by the climbing bug like I did, the rest is history. But if you associate climbing walls more with Spider-Man than with any mere mortal, it can seem pretty daunting at first. Despite its obvious Spidey connections, climbing is pretty beginner-friendly, as long as you take the time to get prepared.
As with any other sport, there are a few rudimentary steps you'll have to take to get into climbing, like joining a gym near you and shopping for the necessary gear (although most gyms have shoes, harnesses, and chalk available to rent). But, as Gavi Weiner, an REI Outdoor School instructor based in Denver, tells us, climbing is more than just a workout. It's a brainteaser, a gateway to a whole new community, and an opportunity to develop enough hand dexterity that you can open a door while holding a coffee cup.
It's only natural, then, that there are a few additional things you ought to know about climbing before diving in. Ahead, Weiner shares five 101-level lessons about climbing, from the most common misconceptions to how they can make the most of their time on the wall.
A little prep goes a long way.
You don't have to be a rock climbing expert before you set foot in a gym, but researching the basics ahead of time will benefit you in the long run. Whether you decide to start with bouldering (where you climb without a rope on a lower wall) or top roping (where you're belayed by a person on the ground using a rope that's anchored to the top of the climb), you should "learn enough to be able to assess if your mentor or partner is behaving to a high safety standard," Weiner says. She recommends looking into introductory courses offered at your local gym before striking out on your own. Not only will you come to your first sessions knowing the right questions to ask, you'll likely feel more confident as well.
You're probably a stronger climber than you think.
It's a common misconception that climbing requires a ton of upper-body strength from the get go — Weiner explains that this belief couldn't be farther from the truth. "It is possible to power through using [only] upper body strength and kind of bulldogging your way up a climb, but I always encourage beginners to really focus on their feet and their legs," she says. "As more experienced climbers know, that’s where the real magic and control lie." That said, Weiner adds that it's normal for your forearms to feel really sore and tight (or, to use climbing lingo, pumped) after your first session, since it takes some time to learn to trust your feet on the wall.
Your brain might get teased.
Once you advance beyond the simplest routes, climbing can quickly become a mental, as well as a physical, challenge. You might need to spend a little more time "reading" your route, or looking at it from the ground to see how each move in the climb should fit together (this process is also known as "sequencing"). Then, you'll need to keep that sequence in mind as you make your attempt. As you might have guessed, your thoughts aren't likely to wander while you're trying to send (aka, successfully climb) your route. "You can’t be distracted by daily things when you’re on a cliff or even at the gym," Weiner says, comparing climbing to a near-meditative experience. "You're just razor-sharp focused on your movements and your breathing — at least, that’s what we’re going for."
Your climbing companions matter.
We mentioned earlier that you obviously want to climb with someone who knows what they're doing, but you also want to surround yourself with climbers who support and encourage you. As it tends to be the case with outdoor sports, the overall climbing community is still overwhelmingly male and overwhelmingly white. If you don't identify as such, climbing might not feel super accessible. Luckily, groups and collectives are creating safe spaces for women, people of colour, people with disabilities, LGBTQ+ people, and more to train and climb together. Speaking from her personal experience as a climber, Weiner admits that climbing with one's peers does make a difference. "My climbing really improved and shifted when I started climbing with women," she says. "I’ve seen and felt that women let their guard down more and it’s not as intimidating [to climb with them]."
Don't be afraid to experiment.
Weiner emphasises this point: No two climbs are exactly alike. "There really are climbs for every body type and every level," she says. If you're struggling to complete a route with a major overhang, why not give a slab route a try instead? Even if you've stuck to trying V0s and V1s (the easiest and most beginner-friendly bouldering grades), why not try the first couple moves in a V2, just to see how far you get? Remember, Weiner says, climbing is supposed to be fun, so feel free to play around with your practice and training. Doing so will keep you from getting discouraged, too.
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