Marrakech sure is a different place than it was 10 years ago. Of course it's still beautiful, and full of sights and sounds and smells that nourish the senses, but it has become ever more touristy of late and, let's face it, a stroll through an architecturally stunning 12th-century medina doesn't need to be interrupted by the vocal offerings of British tourists drinking behind the walls of the gated Thomas Cook resort. Sorry Morocco.
For the past three years however, easyJet has been running two direct flights a week to Essaouira – a city just three hours' drive out to the coast from Marrakech. Long a popular French holiday destination, other European and African visitors are now more commonplace around the windy beach town. And for good reason, too. There's a long, windsurfing-ready beach, a small but perfectly formed medina, a huge artistic scene, incredible restaurants and, so far, very few chain-type resorts in the surrounding areas. Fingers crossed it stays that way for a while.
Here's how to do Essaouira over a long weekend.
Getting there
As mentioned, easyJet flies direct to Essaouira twice a week. It is from Luton, which is no one's favourite airport, but the flight does come in at just three-ish hours, which totally makes up for it.
Most guesthouses and riads will offer to book you an airport transfer (you'll pay extra), but it's not a bad idea as although there is apparently a bus, rumours abound about its reliability and frequency. Expect to pay €15-25 for a transfer.
Getting around once you're there isn't too hard. If you're staying in the medina you'll walk everywhere (except for excursions, where travel will be organised for you). If you're out of the medina, there are more taxis than you can shake a stick at, for very reasonable prices. Most guesthouses and hotels will have no problem booking them for you. Otherwise, just walk! Although make sure you know where you're going – you're outside the EU remember, that 3G isn't going to work.
Where to stay
Casa Guapa de Tamuziga
This guesthouse is about a 20-minute walk from the beach and is set in a family-filled and friendly neighbourhood off the tourist track. The roof terrace is divine, the staff endlessly helpful and the breakfasts will easily be among the best meals you eat on your whole trip. Prices start from €25 a night.
Dar Caravane
A little further out of town, this eclectically decorated hotel deserves a visit even if all you're doing is sampling the pool or their really very good restaurant. If you can afford to stay though, the rooms are even more aesthetically pleasing than the eccentric gardens and the beautiful terracotta pink building itself. The Instagram possibilities are endless; there's even a peacock. Prices from €69 a night.
Heure Bleue Palais – Relais & Châteaux
Located right next to the medina, this hotel is exactly what to go for if you're after the lap of luxury. There's a heated pool on the roof, a hammam, a massage room and plenty of exquisitely decorated lounges, bars and restaurants for whiling away the too-hot afternoons. Prices from €227.
Where to eat
Obviously most places aren't allowed to serve alcohol. One place, not on this list and which must remain nameless, sometimes serves "Moroccan cola" however – which is, erm, red wine in a Coke can. Foolproof.
Kameleon Restaurant
For really, truly top-notch food at minuscule prices, head to Kameleon, a vegan (ish) café that holds all sorts of weird and wonderful holistic workshops in the evenings and whose food could happily take on any overpriced, so-called "clean eating" restaurant back in the UK. Nice staff too.
Triskala
Tucked away in a dark, souk-like room, this traditional restaurant needs a booking to get in – everyone from designer-wearing Parisians to backpacking students can be found sampling the delicious (and cheap!) offerings here.
Caravane Cafe
Save this for the last night; the Caravane Cafe is, like Dar Caravane, another exceptional example of what happens when designers commit to a BOLD colour palette. It serves very good food and wine too. It's more expensive than other places but still not much more than a chain restaurant in the UK.
Les Bretons Du Sud
Supposedly the best seafood you'll have in the city, although the atmosphere isn't exactly relaxing. This is literally a stand (#33) with a folding table in the middle of Essaouira's busy and bustling port. Enjoy a platter of the catch of the day in among shouting fishermen and determined seagulls for a (relatively) cheap price, which you should agree on before you start eating.
Where to go out
As mentioned, alcohol isn't served in most places, which actually is one of the most delightful things about the country as a whole. For the thirsty, however, there is a smattering of bars and a big Carrefour with a separate room for alcohol. But if you're looking for a delicious late night* mint tea or a top-notch juice, there are plenty of places to pick from.
Taros
The big bar in town. This rooftop club is like the Moroccan version of a Spanish beach bar. Take from that what you will. There's live music, which ranges from traditional Berber tunes to, erm, Moroccan house? The best thing to do is get there early and bag a seat on the turret to watch the sunset with a glass of ice-cold vin gris in hand.
Mega Loft
One of those aforementioned juice places. If you don't go for food, it's worth dropping in here on your way home for one of their many complex and creative juices – fingers crossed you'll get some live music too.
Le Chalet De La Plage
Ignore the fact that this bar has a loose Barcelona FC theme and instead focus on the fact that it has a roof terrace practically on the beach, excellent wine and calamari. A marvellous spot for afternoon tipples.
BistrO Essaouira
Set in a cute little square, tucked away from the main bustle, BistrO Essaouira is a new café that is perfect for watching the world go by as you sip on mint tea or their incredible homemade lemonade. The square also seems to be a popular hangout for Essaouira's feline and canine inhabitants so, um, enjoy watching the cute dogs and cats playing?
*A lot of places close around 10-11 so take "late night" with a pinch of salt
Where to shop
The Souk
The whole medina is jam-packed full of stores selling everything from knock-off football kits and handbags to high end clothing and home accessories. After a day or two you'll figure out where most stuff is but a few brief pointers: Rue Yemen under the city walls seemed to have the best selection and prices on plates, bowls and other ceramics, while around Bab Doukkala is where the locals shop, all the way along to the Marché aux Poissons (definitely worth a look). Jewellery and other bits by local artists are all up and down Avenue Sidi Mohamed.
Histoire De Filles
Practically overflowing with Moroccan designers, this upmarket store is full of jewellery, bags, clothes and homeware.
Gallery Kasbah
Half art gallery and store, half place of unbelievable wonder, this crumbling old riad is packed to the brim with artworks from all different artists for all sorts of different prices. Make sure you make your way up the many, many flights of stairs for a rooftop view from one of the highest points in the city.
Hiya Art De Vivre
A homeware store with a very agreeable café perched on the roof. Expect high quality textiles, pottery and artwork from local craftspeople.
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