What exactly makes an 'it' bag? Is a cult carryall a bag that possesses classic features and fabrics, making it timeless, or does its must-have nature lie in its ability to capture the zeitgeist? Is it the brand that makes it so, or the person that carries it?
It bags certainly don't have to be functional – just look at 1995's Lady Dior, a gift from France's first lady to Princess Diana, which wouldn't hold much more than the bare essentials. (Then again, what does a princess really need to carry?) Fendi's '97 Baguette bag, a favourite of SATC 's Carrie, was completely anti-functional; more a key component of a killer outfit than a practical item.
In recent times, several brands have produced coveted bags that have quickly made their way from catwalk to the arms of street stylers to high street imitations. Phoebe Philo's severely structured Céline Luggage Tote caught the attention of everyone from dedicated Philophiles to Kim Kardashian. Gucci's Marmont comes in all shapes and sizes – from top-handled to chain-laden shoulder-strapped – but it's the belt bag iteration that has defined this season.
Ahead, we quiz our favourite bag brands on what exactly defines the 'it' bag, what makes a timeless piece, and which style you should invest in this season. Who knows, it could be a future classic.
Staud is the creation of Sarah Staudinger, former fashion director at Reformation, and her partner George Augusto. With clientele including Alexa Chung and Leandra Medine, the brand mixes downtown LA aesthetics with vintage-inspired pieces.
How would you describe the brand's approach to handbags?
We believe in the idea that women today don't just want one bag for the season anymore. The Staud customer wants multiple bags a season and to change her bags with her outfits. We don't want her to have to choose just one so we keep our prices low and our designs timeless.
What, in your opinion, makes an 'it' bag?
A unique design detail, and something that can be worn diversely – day to night, a business meeting, a music festival – anywhere she goes, it works.
And how does a brand make a timeless classic?
A design that withstands trends. You can’t place it in a decade by looking at it. It's elegant in shape and just practical enough.
What shapes, textures and colours are you most excited for this season?
I am really excited for patent, PVC and the colour purple.
Your hero piece we should add to our wish list?
The Shirley tote bag! My new favourite style. You basically get two bags in one. I take out the inner pouch and use it as a clutch from time to time. It makes day to night bag switches so easy.
BOYY is the New York-born brainchild of Jesse Dorsey and Wannasiri Kong. Most recognisable for its oversized pilgrim-esque buckle, the brand is as loved by Copenhagen street stylers as by British fashion editors.
How would you describe the brand's approach to handbags?
Our approach has always been that a woman’s handbag should have a masculine edge and plenty of paradox.
What, in your opinion, makes an 'it' bag?
It’s a style/design that somehow has the power to leave an undying memory, which then breeds desire.
And how does a brand make a timeless classic?
With incredible patience, blood, love, sweat and tears...
What shapes, textures and colours are you most excited for this season?
We’re really having fun with our newest “YEUXLET” collection of both shoes and bags, using primary shapes and colours, blurring the line between object and accessory. Also, our “toys” series, featuring wood rings and buckles, as a direct ode to the boundless fun and joy of raising our first child, who was a year old at the time of design.
Your hero piece we should add to our wish list?
Our spring “colour block” series; they're like an accessory cocktail of Miró and Mondrian – on the rocks.
Amsterdam-based Wandler was founded by Elza Wandler, whose background lies in men's accessories. The trapeze-shaped Hortensia has become a permanent fixture of our Instagram feeds, and for good reason.
How would you describe the brand's approach to handbags?
With each bag, I try to challenge myself and play with finding an equal balance of uber feminine and clean-androgynous. Directional, clear in shape and function, and a dynamic use of colours lead throughout my collections. Wandler bags are a clean, colourful and feminine aesthetic.
What, in your opinion, makes an 'it' bag?
Unique outspoken shapes and/or colours.
And how does a brand make a timeless classic?
No idea, I can't give the correct answer to this. Your goal is to make a classic with a design that can live forever but you can only know if you achieved this after several years. I guess timeless pieces always have a certain simpleness in their design.
What shapes, textures and colours are you most excited for this season?
For SS18 Main I have some really cool printed croc leather in colours like a soft pink and a sage (ocean green). For PF18 I have some crazy textures in shiny goat leather. All from Italy.
Your hero piece we should add to our wish list?
The Hortensia bag medium in orange.
Danse Lente (meaning 'slow dance' in French) is Youngwon Kim's London-based brand bringing together experimental features and classic shapes, making for thoroughly modern accessories.
How would you describe the brand's approach to handbags?
From a design point of view, I usually focus on creating the impression of being different by twisting some familiar details of what we already know in handbags.
Technically, we have worked very hard to develop a new approach to hardware pieces and have tried to bring some strong contrast in colour blocking. An overarching focus remains to ensure we provide quality at an affordable price point for our consumers.
What, in your opinion, makes an 'it' bag?
It’s difficult to describe because it’s so personalised to the individual’s style. However, I believe that an ‘it’ bag is something which is timeless, but with an edge, be it in the shape, colour or materials.
And how does a brand make a timeless classic?
It’s more to do with instinct. Basically, I make mock-up samples and go through the process of reflection and modification in my own ways. In doing that, it filters out and leaves the essence of good lines and details that are less likely to get tired. I suppose that enables me to get a step closer to creating timeless design.
What shapes, textures and colours are you most excited for this season?
We have introduced shearling for Pre-Fall 18 which is really exciting, it’s a new material which we haven’t used before and adds a great texture to the bags. Our colour palette focusses on emerald green, blush pink, dark navy, okra and varying shades of tan.
Your hero piece we should add to our wish list?
It’s really difficult for me to select just one, but I love the new Pre-Fall styles, Bobbi and Margot!
Matt & Nat has been creating vegan bags since its inception in 1995 in Canada. Designing directional pieces in trend-led shades, the brand brings an ethical alternative to your wardrobe.
How would you describe the brand's approach to handbags?
We want to reinvent people’s perceptions of vegan handbags and accessories. No one should have to compromise their personal style for their values or vice versa. We love minimalist design with maximalist functionality.
What, in your opinion, makes an 'it' bag?
The inspiration of our brand is infused in the name MAT(T)erial and NATure – exploring the synergy between the two. We have and will forever be committed to not using leather or any other animal-based materials in our designs. Each season, we continue to explore and utilise innovative ways to improve their sustainability, while still producing high quality and timeless products. So in our opinion, that's an 'it' bag!
And how does a brand make a timeless classic?
Listening to our clients, year over year, to find out what their daily needs are, we refine our bestselling designs. Great design solves complex problems in a beautiful way.
What shapes, textures and colours are you most excited for this season?
The collection has four different materials: Dwell, Vintage, Loom and Cork. These all include a range of different colours, including our favourite which is the 'chili' – a lovely vintage tan colour.
Our signature Dwell Collection is composed of 100% PVC that is soft, textured and rich-looking, creating a classic finish. Pieces from our Vintage Collection are sturdy and strong, retaining shape and ageing gracefully with time.
The Loom Collection is light and supple, allowing for a less structured design and a smooth, soft finish. Made of 100% PU, this collection represents our beliefs towards building a more sustainable future. Moreover, all of our linings are made of 100% recycled plastic bottles (we recycle around 3 million a year).
Your hero piece we should add to our wish list?
Definitely the Brave – it's our bestseller! However, each season we introduce new silhouettes and categories.
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